Maybe you could show what you are talking about. You shouldn't need to start swapping the position of the wiring if you have the right part to start with.
If you look at the little notches on that four pin connector, OEM they face away from the posts, replacement they face towards. Which looking at how the posts are swapped, the flow of power should also be swapped so that shouldn’t be the issue.Maybe you could show what you are talking about. You shouldn't need to start swapping the position of the wiring if you have the right part to start with.
I’m not entirely sure what the proper way is at this point. There’s been alot going on in this thread and I’m doing my best to absorb any knowledge I can. My apologies if it seems as though I’m clueless, I truly want to learn and understand the process.Did you actually test your relay properly to see if it was the problem?
Yes it isIs the fuse blown on the OEM relay?
Well it wasnt broken whilst testing it in earlier posts, the fuse actually snapped when a friend of mine knocked it off the counter and it fell on the floor.That might explain why it wasn't working.
The switch is hooked up and it is an M MATI brand.The relay that you bought is probably designed to work on a number of Honda bikes. The 2 large terminals can be swapped, but you shouldn't have to rearrange the smaller wires. If that was the case it should have been supplied with instructions. Do you have the new switch hooked up? What brand is it?
Neither, currently there is no key switch, coming in the mail, and I didnt press the button. The new relay had the positive and negative leads connected to the posts, it blew the second I plugged in the 4 pin connector to the top of it.When did the fuse blow, when you turned the key on or when you pushed the button?
I did not due to the fuse being snapped.Did you try the new switch with the old relay?
Yes that is what I meant my apologies. Cable from starter motor went on the M post on the relay, positive battery on the BAT post of the relay.You don't put the positive and negative on the relay. It is large positive on one post and the starter cable on the other.
Great question, hence why I was trying to bypass with the remote starter but those puny wires are a waste of time.How do you expect all this to work without the ignition?
Sounds good. I appreciate the help you've provided in this thread. My apologies if I am too new at this to be asking questions. I'll crack down and get to learning some important information before wasting peoples time.I'm out