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Starter Clicking

I think you might be in over your head. Try what Brett suggested. 8 volts will not be enough.
 
You can't jump the 2 large wires on the relay with a remote switch with small wires. Try running a large 12 volt wire directly to the starter like Brett suggested. That will bypass the relay all together. You need 12 volts at the starter.
 
A lot happened since I saw this thread!
Yes, use jumper cables for a car. Take the ends from one of the cables, clip it to the post on the starter, quickly touch the other cable end to the battery positive terminal. What you're doing is sending the voltage from the battery straight to the starter and by passing the relay. If the starter turns over you have a relay issue somewhere. If the starter does not turn over, you have a starter problem.
 
Starter Solenoids stick, I took mine off and banged it on the workbench. put it back on and works fine. Assume it's a temporary fix. before you take it off you can bang with a rubber mallet while on the bike and see if there is any difference. POA pulling the starter motor.
 
If his was stuck the starter wouldn't shut off. But he can't get it started.

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Some updates here. Starter seems to be fine, also seems pretty clean under the side cover. I have a new relay and a real handlebar starter button coming tomorrow so I’ll keep yall updated! Thank for the help thus far!
 
For the future, don't let contacts spark like that. Hold the post there. But if you were unsure how the whole thing would go, I understand being cautious.
In any case, starter is good. Replacing your relay may fix your problem. I heard it clicking but your starter didn't run. Could have been corroded or broken contacts inside. While you have things apart, look at the starter cable ends and make sure they are good.
 
For the future, don't let contacts spark like that. Hold the post there. But if you were unsure how the whole thing would go, I understand being cautious.
In any case, starter is good. Replacing your relay may fix your problem. I heard it clicking but your starter didn't run. Could have been corroded or broken contacts inside. While you have things apart, look at the starter cable ends and make sure they are good.
I will definitely try not to let it spark like that again! I am most certainly going to replace the wire going from the relay to the motor and the battery to the relay. The Relay to motor doesn’t look too bad, neither does the post on the starter but it doesn’t hurt to get new. I’m really glad the starter is working properly. Time to crack down on the other suspects!
 
While you have the cover off put a socket on the end of the crank and turn the engine just to confirm it is turning freely. Also in one of your posts you indicated you only had 8 volts. Did you figure out what that was about?
 
If his was stuck the starter wouldn't shut off. But he can't get it started.
Hear what your saying, but selenoids can also stick in the open position and not engage the starter. Just going from what I've seen. Time to bang the selenoid with a rubber mallet and see what happens. think he's proven the starter is ok and a new way to start a campfire.
 
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Also in one of your posts you indicated you only had 8 volts. Did you figure out what that was about?
This was a reading done across the positive and negative posts of the relay, but the reason for the drop was likely due to the small gauge of the remote starter. Like I said in a previous post, I have a new relay on the way that I will try with, I have a good feeling this current relay is not functioning properly.

While you have the cover off put a socket on the end of the crank and turn the engine just to confirm it is turning freely.
I had it closed it up by the time I saw this but I’ll definitely pop that side cover back off and try this out!
 
No, it is time to test it. If it doesn't work you throw it out. Banging it with a hammer might get you off the side of the highway but other than that it is just a waste of time. Fix it properly and remove all doubt.
Just a little easy and quick 101 troubleshooting to isolate the problems. If it does change the symptoms then you know, and time to change it or test further. As you stated some basic knowledge that could come in handy if you are stuck on the road and you don't have a meter or test light handy. Just did this on my bike and unfortunately on my truck on a 1000-mile trip that has the selenoid built into the starter. Besides, sometimes it is always good to bang something, you may fill in the blanks. take care.
 
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Quick update, I just attempted to plug up the new relay, the second I plugged the 4 pin connector into the top of it the fuse blew. I’m unsure of anywhere that a short could be happening. This wiring harness has seen better days but I am not so quick to just blame it on an old harness.
 
Did you also install the new switch that you said you were buying? Where did you get the relay? Just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. Is it a cheap Chinese one from Amazon or is it from a reputable motorcycle parts supplier?
 
Did you also install the new switch that you said you were buying? Where did you get the relay? Just because it is new doesn't mean it is good. Is it a cheap Chinese one from Amazon or is it from a reputable motorcycle parts supplier?
It is one from amazon... and yes the new switch was installed. I believe the four pin connector needs to be rearranged in comparison to the oem relay. This relay came without pinouts, what did I expect with a cheap relay.... This is the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FBRTS9N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The poles are swapped and I can't seem to find many posts or videos with people specifically wiring up the replacment relays. Guess I learned my lesson here...
 
What do you mean "The poles are swapped"?
The OEM relay has the motor pst on the left, and the bat on the right. This one is flopped from that, having the motor post on the right side.
Why do you think that?
From a video I watched with someone using the same kind of relay as me, they show it being installed, then in the final startup its magically back to the OEM one. Taking a look at the orentation of the wires and how they face the posts when plugged in, they are in different spots than they would be for the OEM. If I am not making much sense please let me know and i'll try to grab a picture showing this.
 
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