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Low compression from sitting

The leak down test does not use oil. Oil can be used during the compression test to see if it helps the rings seal better. Tablespoon is fine in large car cylinders but it too much for these small motorcycle engines and can indeed give false high readings as the oil takes up space in the cylinder effectivly raising the compression ratio. All you want to do is put enough oil in so it coats the cylinders and rings trying to make them seal better. Leaking valves or head gasket will not get better with oil. The leakdown test is done with a tool that puts compressed air in the cylinder with it at top dead center compression stroke. Then you listen to where the air is escaping. The leakdown tool has a calibrated gauge that tells you the amount of leakdown in the cylinder. But it is easy enough to rig up a setup that threads into the cylinder and connects to an air supply. I just use an old compression test hose and connect to my air compressor with a regulator so you can slowly up the air pressure and see where it is leaking. Too much air and you will make the engine spin over, normally if you have a leak it is pretty obvious. Out the exhaust...leaking exhaust valve, out the intake...leaking intake valve, in the crankcase.....past the rings, out another cylinder.....blown head gasket between those cylinders. The amount of leaking to me is irrelevant, if it is leaking I am going to tear down and fix it so I dont need a tool that tells me percentage of leak....because I dont care. A small amount of leak is always going to happen because rings can never seal 100%
 
Oh, wow. I was way off! I thought they were the same thing. Thanks for the info, Digger, all of that makes perfect sense. Apologies to the original poster.
 
WAIT ... 2 other people posted while I was typing...
Dirt Digger beat me to the draw.

Indeed, the leak-down tester I was looking at last night looks a lot like a compression tester, except it has an extra dial. You hook it up to an air compressor and it blows air into the cylinder (like DD said). The tool isn't very expensive at all, but ya also need a compressor... which I haven't got at this moment. Might have to get one pretty soon here.

DD: I get that if the headers are off, you can listen for air there. If the carbs are off, I can listen for air there. How are you able to hear air getting past the rings? I mean...where are you putting your ear?

I regret not tearing CB750 engines apart when there were spares sitting in my yard. I could have learned a lot more. But I was also really busy chasing girls back then too, so...
 
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DD: I get that if the headers are off, you can listen for air there. If the carbs are off, I can listen for air there. How are you able to hear air getting past the rings? I mean...where are you putting your ear?
The crank case vent, or pop some valve adjuster caps off. You dont need to have the exhaust or carbs off. You can open the throttle. It is obvious when you have a leak.
 
I like Dirtdigger's attitude though. "The amount of leaking to me is irrelevant, if it is leaking I am going to tear down and fix it so I dont need a tool that tells me percentage of leak....because I dont care."

You're a badass DD.
 
I like Dirtdigger's attitude though. "The amount of leaking to me is irrelevant, if it is leaking I am going to tear down and fix it so I dont need a tool that tells me percentage of leak....because I dont care."

You're a badass DD.
There's always going to be some percentage of leakage, even on a brand new, broken-in engine. Due to the end gaps, the rings don't really seal 100%. Not sure what the acceptable leakage for a small engine like the 750 is, but on automotive V8 engines that figure is around 10%.

Bad rings will show up when you add a bit of oil to the cylinders while doing a compression test, bad valve guides will cause the engine to smoke on deceleration, bad valves will show up when oil added to the cylinder won't increase compression during the test. A hole in the piston will obviously result in zero compression.
DD is right, for a motorcycle you don't really need the leak-down tester. The only time I used mine as a GM dealership tech was to diagnose a warranty claim. They don't pay tear-down time for diagnosis but will pay time for the leak-down test.
 
The prescribed advice is well taken. I will redo my compression test when I buy a new tester. (Or go back and borrow one from O'reilly's.)
 
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