Intermittent High Voltage

[millsmobile]

I've replaced both the rotor, and regulator / rectifier due to lack of sufficient voltage & charging, and now it's swinging the other way. It's sitting around 13-13.5v at idle, and hits between 17-18 volts around 5k rpms and up. I've got the MUnit Blue, and am getting the voltage readout and warning from the app. I just got the app hooked up the other day, but the symptoms have been going on longer. The other day after pulling up to a light after some hard riding the bike died, and the battery was dead (it's less than 2 months old). Thankfully this was right by a bunch of car shops and one was nice enough to let me use their charger, and after 1/2 hour the battery had plenty of juice and got me home. So... my understanding is these bikes are known for weak charging systems, but mine seems to be going crazy lol. What could cause this?

I put about 35 miles on it today, and only got the voltage warnings for the first half of the ride. Battery had been fully charged on a tender before I went out.

 

[brettp]

Sounds like you got a bad R&R. I know it is new but if it is a knock off, Chinese junk, higher chances of problems.

 

[millsmobile]

Sounds like you got a bad R&R. I know it is new but if it is a knock off, Chinese junk, higher chances of problems.

I did read all the warnings about that and got a Rick's.

 

[brettp]

I hate to tell you this, but I think you still got a dud. The only way for over 14V to get to the battery is if you have a bad R&R, or the R&R is built for higher voltage.
I would call them.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Check, clean, tighten your connections/plugs at the regulator. If your regulator is not reading the voltage correctly from the battery.......that would cause your over charging. I currently have a Toyota over charging, bought the regulator that goes inside the alternator. Some want $150 to $250 for this regulator, almost as much as the cost of a remanufactured alternator. Found one for less than $20. It hasn't wrecked the battery yet........been driving around with the bright lights, blower motor, dome light and radio on.

 

[brettp]

The Regulator reads battery voltage? Doesn't the regulator simply send any voltage above 14 to ground?

 

[millsmobile]

Will check over the wiring, the fact that it's intermittent does make me wonder about that. I'd think those symptoms would point to a specific wire? I don't know how the regulators work, but if it normally sends the extra voltage to ground that definitely seems like the one to look at. Thanks guys.

 

[brettp]

If I'm right, it wouldn't be the ground wire that is a problem. It would be the R&R internals that aren't working properly.

 

[millsmobile]

I talked to someone there today, they're probably going to have me send it in for testing. If its my fault would love to figure it out before I round trip the part. My ignition switch has 2 wires coming out of it that aren't connected to anything, so it's probably worth tracing over. Here's the diagram I found, didn't see anything for what's inside. If it's not the ground, could it be the 12v feed black wire?

 

[brettp]

IMO, and I'm not an expert, none of those wires would be the issue. The three yellow wires from the stator to the RR are AC and the RR has diodes and other parts that rectify and regulate (turn the negative of the AC wave into a positive wave, and make sure excess voltage does not reach the battery). Those three yellow wires naturally produce AC voltage that is beyond what the battery can handle, so the RR is a necessary part to ensure safe charging (and power to the bike).

 

[mrtwowheel]

The Regulator reads battery voltage?

Yes

 

[brettp]

Please help me understand that.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Dirty, corroded ignition switch.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Bump How are you doing with your charging issue?

 

[millsmobile]

Bump How are you doing with your charging issue?

Ricks Electronics wants me to send it in for testing to confirm or deny. Hoping to pull it off today.

Curious about the ignition switch comment though.... How would I test that? I do have a bizarre issue where I don't always have spark when I go to start it. Cycle key off and on, and then it fires right up. Everything else powers on when there's no spark though, and there are only two wires. I already took the switch out, cleaned it up, and put it back in, no change. Seems if it's just a simple off/on switch if there's continuity it should be good?

 

[brettp]

I would assume so, too. Weird.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Did you disassemble and clean the contacts inside of the switch? Just spraying the keyhole will not reach the contacts inside. Still think you may have a weak wire or contact that is causing your regulator to not read voltage correctly.

 

[millsmobile]

Did you disassemble and clean the contacts inside of the switch? Just spraying the keyhole will not reach the contacts inside. Still think you may have a weak wire or contact that is causing your regulator to not read voltage correctly.

I did not take it apart, was more interested in riding that day than learning how to disassemble that switch. I'll check it out though.

 

[floyd850]

Did you disassemble and clean the contacts inside of the switch? Just spraying the keyhole will not reach the contacts inside. Still think you may have a weak wire or contact that is causing your regulator to not read voltage correctly.

Kinda having the same issue - any incite is much appreciated! 81 here and I loose almost all voltage when hitting start button and of course no spark. When letting off start button plugs fire.
All switches involved cleaned and or replaced
All grounds cleaned and or replaced
battery checked and holding tight
hell I even went through tail light wiring per someone else's suggestion
I can bypass start button crossing starter relay and sparks great with no loss in voltage. Maddening!
Accepting any help, criticism, hey, try this, ANYTHING!

 

[brettp]

When you push the start button does the starter turn the engine over?