No lights, but horn and turn work

[pwilkes3]

New to the 750 world, and very excited to have one now (i see a new 1100 in my future, but I digress). So I bought a 1980 custom, 33k miles, pretty decent shape. Few minor details, but overall sound. I've put over 1k on it since I've bought it, but now it's being difficult. I didn't see any threads describing a problem quite like mine, so here goes:

Battery seems charged, first off. Replaced the starter relay because I was tired of hitting it when I wanted to start it (new one has fuse vice wire-fuse). Ignition key turned to on...no headlight, no brake lights at all (even when pressed), no display lights, start button does nothing (yes it's on run lol). But, here's the odd part, horn and turn signals function. Frustrated, to say the least. Ideas? Anything would be helpful, I'm pretty new to this 750 business. Great with cars, but motorcycles are still new to me. Thanks!

-Paul

 

[dan1951]

Everything worked after changing start relay? Or problem developed later?

 

[pwilkes3]

It had done this once before, at the shop, after changing float needles and bowl gaskets, but totally unrelated to the work done. We put on tender for a bit, started up. Well, I put it on one today, and that's obviously not the issue. It's not original ignition key, so faulty maybe? I've tried jiggling every wire on the harness i can get to for a faulty/bad ground. Didn't have a ton of time before I had to head to base, on a borrowed bike no less. Frustrated lol

 

[dan1951]

A faulty ignition switch could give You the problems Your describing, But I would check all the wiring connection blocks, All four fuse block holders, for corrosion First. Original ignition switch or just the key?

 

[pwilkes3]

New switch. I have 2 keys, one for tank/helmet lock other for ignition. Fuse blocks looked good, one fuse holder on tree looked hot or melted a bit, like previous owner messed with soldering, but connection seemed good. Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch, similar to shorting the starter?

 

[dan1951]

Before changing the wire configuration, When the problem exist check for 12volts at the Trail end of all fuses with a test light or multimeter, Sounds like a loss of power on the secondary side of one of the fuses. I do not have a print of Your bikes electical I,m going by a print from Oldman Honda wiring diagrams.com You need a decent manual for Your bike to match the color combo,s of Your wiring They changed the colors quite often on the later years. Looks are decieving on wiring what looks good might fail under load. Check those items and hopefully it might be Your problem,

 

[pwilkes3]

I have the Clymer manual with color wiring, on the way to get multimeter today. I'll run through the connections in a bit. Sucks that I drove the bike to base, so it's my ride back home, hence the hot wire I'd need just to get home lol

 

[motogtp]

Had a similar problem and the main fuse terminal looked a little melted. Turns out the fuse would get hot but not blow. The connection had a little schmutz on it and the fuse was a little oversized. I cleaned up the connection and got the right sized fuse. No problems since.

 

[pwilkes3]

Ok if I use a voltage tester on the oil/neutral fuse and touch the fuse and terminal holding I, lights come on. Then it blew what looked like an in line fuse attached to a gaggle of crap attached to turn signal clicker by battery.

 

[pwilkes3]

Put old ignition relay back in, other wouldn't read any voltage even on hot power in. So I think that's part of the problem. Ignition issues are definitely there I think, as well

 

[dan1951]

Put Your test light or meter on the neg. battery terminal and other lead to the red wire on the solenoid the smaller red not the batt. red. That one feeds all four fuses You should get 12volts with the key on, There are no inline fuses on the print just the four. Someone altered something if there is a 5th fuse that probally accounts for turn signals and horn working. Anyway to post pictures of the area in question?

 

[pwilkes3]

Got the issue fixed. They'd labeled the starter relay backwards lol. Switch leads, problem solved!