Gonna try to be as objective as I can here and not piss people off. But if it happens..............well................I apologize.
'Restore' is garbage. I used to sell it when I was in car parts. I conned people to do that and my bad. You can run compression numbers way up by simply adding a teaspoon of oil into the chamber and voila, instant motor rebuild. For about a minute. The Restore lasts maybe an hour. There is NO SUCH THING as an instant engine restoration chemical, and I sold more than just that brand alone. Some which 100% guaranteed and $80+ a bottle, they didn't work either. It's a SCAM, one either is smart enough to get that or they aren't. I saw people try to get their money back but it never happened. Between point A and point B there EVERYBODY tells you how well it works, give it a couple weeks or a month and that all changes. To sort things out to myself I would often pay a customer I thought to not be a self-bullsh-tter $5 if he would quietly tell me the truth about this or that 'miracle cure in a bottle', did it really work for him and they then tell you the truth. People do not like to admit that stuff as it reflects on their personal judgement and the chemical companies make MILLIONS off that personal flaw. I even got certain salespeople that represented product lines to admit their own stuff was crap, crap that desperate people scream to get. Of course that was not to be released to the public. Think Trump taxes.
Some of us have rebuilt a lot of engines like me. 2 stroke. 4 stroke. OEM cars of all brands and drag cars up to 1500 hp. and ran over 200 mph 1/4 miles. These bike engines are tinker toys really.
There's a reason why 100 psi compression is pretty much universally looked at as being an engine that is not worth running until you fix it or junk it. Compression does one thing only and that is create HEAT, the heat needed to keep plugs burning clean, without it they then foul black and motor goes down.
The compression test could easily be flawed, one of the most common things that happens. The gauges are commonly crap. The user skills are commonly crap. Tool if a rental is highly suspect, there is a relief valve in there that commonly gets changed and the wrong one off a tire is used, it then reads way low. If the kind that simply presses against the hole to seal, a 100% waste of time, the numbers are NEVER right. Even the length of hose there can tilt the numbers and worse on bikes as they have no big displacement like on a car. I use a best of the best screw-in gauge and even then I pull at least 4 readings from every single cylinder, the more, the better accuracy you have there. A low battery will ruin the numbers, leaving some plugs in will ruin the numbers. Etc., etc. On a bike you use a car battery, the bike one generally slows down by the end of testing and the numbers go off.
Bike runs amazing? No insult intended at all but I ran into that all day long when I was in parts, somebody tells me that and I'm leaning against the car to clearly hear that one or two cylinder are not even running, it has a dead lopsided miss. I got my 750 three cylinder Kawasaki by listening to the next door neighbor brag about how utterly fast it was, like a bullet. Then I offered to tune it up for him. Of course I knew already one cylinder out of three was not even working, I raced Kaw 3s there for a bit. Tuned it up and he took it around the block and came back utterly terrified then, he drove it a couple more times and then I got him to sell it to me as it was simply 'too fast', he had no idea it could run like that. Scared sh-tless, he was.
When people tell me how well their stuff runs I let that go in one ear and out the other. Rarely does it turn out to be so, butt dynos being the most flawed machines in the universe. 11K if on a supposedly new engine, there's something wrong with that with compression that low.
No insult intended or pointed at anyone at all but certain things on the planet don't change just because we want them to. The physics will not be denied.
