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Use a Guitar string

Schooney

CB750 Member
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Rebuilding my VB42A carbs. I use a guitar string to clean very tight holes, like idle jets, brake cables
That are clogged.
 
Don't do it. I know it's tempting, but those jets are brass, and guitar strings are harder than brass (typically nickel or steel). The passages are very precisely drilled and you can very easily make the hole bigger without realizing it.

Nylon or brass bristles pulled off a brush if you insist on shoving something through the jet passages, but as a semi-professional who's cleaned a ton of carbs I never shove anything through the jets. A soak and then blast in carb cleaner, or a 30-minute soak in Berryman's Chem-Dip, always clears up the holes for me and I've done dozens of carbs that way.
 
There are usually 2 sizes of Orings in the rebuild kits that look like the right ones for the fuel rails. Use the one that the Oring stands ABOVE the fuel rail. The thin size is only flush with the fuel rail, not thick enough. Even when using the thicker size one they're just tight enough. I just did two banks of these carbs with two more sets to do.
 
Try it, what is there to loose...
Your life, if you poke a hole in a brake line between the inner and outer rubber layers and don't notice it.
The line could swell suddenly on the test ride and then your brake doesn't work.

Don't screw around with brakes. If an ancient rubber brake line is clogged full of filth, just replace it with a new line, preferably braided stainless. Rubber lines aren't built to last decades.
 
There are usually 2 sizes of Orings in the rebuild kits that look like the right ones for the fuel rails. Use the one that the Oring stands ABOVE the fuel rail. The thin size is only flush with the fuel rail, not thick enough. Even when using the thicker size one they're just tight enough. I just did two banks of these carbs with two more sets to do.
The orings in the kit suck. Isnt there a better oring out there? Like viton..
A bit fatter and tight when connected.
 
Loose Chain is right. Buy a more expensive kit like the one from Randakk's, or K&L. Something made in Japan. I have never had any carb issues with proper Japanese-made kits but I have had *many* issues with cheap Amazon/Ebay kits, and even some issues with All Balls and Tusk kits that were mid-priced. You get what you pay for.

The rings in properly good carb kits will be perfect unless you feel like hunting down every JIS size of O-ring you need and buying every one in Viton instead of NBR, which will take you a good while. Viton also isn't as stretchy as NBR so you can sometimes have fit issues even if they're the same size.
 
Loose Chain is right. Buy a more expensive kit like the one from Randakk's, or K&L. Something made in Japan. I have never had any carb issues with proper Japanese-made kits but I have had *many* issues with cheap Amazon/Ebay kits, and even some issues with All Balls and Tusk kits that were mid-priced. You get what you pay for.

The rings in properly good carb kits will be perfect unless you feel like hunting down every JIS size of O-ring you need and buying every one in Viton instead of NBR, which will take you a good while. Viton also isn't as stretchy as NBR so you can sometimes have fit issues even if they're the same size.
Thanks
 
Loose Chain is right. Buy a more expensive kit like the one from Randakk's, or K&L. Something made in Japan. I have never had any carb issues with proper Japanese-made kits but I have had *many* issues with cheap Amazon/Ebay kits, and even some issues with All Balls and Tusk kits that were mid-priced. You get what you pay for.

The rings in properly good carb kits will be perfect unless you feel like hunting down every JIS size of O-ring you need and buying every one in Viton instead of NBR, which will take you a good while. Viton also isn't as stretchy as NBR so you can sometimes have fit issues even if they're the same size.
My carbs are leaking out the over flows. All new parts inside.
Took them off twice now.. please advise..
VB 42 A carbs..
 
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