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New owner of a 1982 CB750K

Actually, it is ideal to have carbs off when running compression tests. You want zero restriction there and that is as zero as it gets.

That's not telling everybody they have to yank carbs to run compression of course, simply holding the throttles wide open is more than enough.
 
1200 miles since 1989 could be as simple as stuck rings depending on how hot the storage area got. Warmer bakes all the VOC out of the oil on pistons as they are not down in the bulk of the liquid. The rings stick in the gum formed there.
 
I rechecked the clearances and redid compression.
I added about half teaspoon oil to the cylinders first in case the rings were dry.
My readings were 135, 135, 120. 110
 
It may need to run to loosen them up. 110 is pretty low, I consider 100 to be a dead cylinder myself, the plug will not stay hot enough to keep from fouling that low.

What are the odds parked because something wrong with it? Normal compression is around 150-170.
 
The PO said it ran when parked. He also had a bridge for sale:laugh:
I did a leak down
1=30% with air noise coming from the case area under the cylinder
2=20% with no sound that I could hear
3=30% with air noise coming from the case area under the cylinder
4=30% with slight leakage from intake valve
I had the ignition cover off and could clearly hear air from that area when doing #1
 
It's an intricate job but I really enjoyed it. I had Mike's booklet, and the rebuild kit from Randakk.com which has gaskets, o rings and other assorted gubbins that are considered amongst the best you can get. Followed the booklet to a t - I dismantled the rack as well which made getting to the air intake valves a breeze (but hooking up the throttle and choke linkages at reassembly was a little tricky, but totally do-able). Once off the rack I soaked each carb in a Pine Sol bath for about 48 hours to get all the crap off them which really worked, and then got to work with the brake and carb sprays that Mike discusses in his booklet. If you do the Pine Sol thing (get the Original, not the scented), be sure to first remove the accelerator pump housing from the bowl on carb 2, and the vacuum petcock thingy that sits on the rack between carbs 3 and 4. These two parts are made of some kind of pot metal that does not like Pine Sol at all (I found that out the hard way).

Took tons of photos as well which really helped, labelled the heck out of everything and worked on one carb at a time. They came out really good (I hope), but as my bike is now almost totally broken down (just need to pull the engine out of the frame - today's job hopefully) I haven't been able to run them on the bike. Need to bench and vacuum synch them but that's for a later date.

Good luck bud
 
I'm trying to figure out why yours has a "classic" tailight on rear fender, while others have the cowl with integrated taillight. It doesn't seem to be specific to any model year, does it?
 
Did you have a crack at those carbs yet?

I finally got the engine out of the frame yesterday and onto the workbench - now that it's out I'm going to look at the pistons and rings and probably change all of them. I have low compression on cylinder #1 and it might be down to the rings.
 
Got it back together and with Mike N's advice tried starting it with a little carb cleaner and luck.
It caught for about 1 second a few times until the battery wore down.
I tried again and the thing will not start. Cleaned wet plugs a few times to no avail.
I'm sending Mike the carbs to refurb even though it's not that bad of a job so I know it's done right.
I can concentrate on now getting the cylinders/head off for inspection.
At least the carbs part of the equation will be solved.
 
How you getting on with the cylinders? The deepest I've gotten in to the engine is the valve head to check the valve clearances, but would like to change the piston rings as well. Looking at Clymers I think I can do it, have to remove the overhead cams, timing chains etc. Little daunting!
 
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