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Engine start issues

Also checked the battery and was reading 12.09 but when I turned key (lights on) it dropped to 11..and only cranked a couple times before it was dead...the other day when we were adjusting the points we did mess with the timing but I thought it was set back to where it was..it didn't backfire when I rode it either..but when it did start the exhaust was whitish until the bike warmed up then it went away...
 
For starters on the last 4 sets of carbs I cleaned, I let them soak in PineSol overnight.. took care of the grease and grime on the outside as well as anywhere on the inside that it could get to.
 
I would take off anything you want... bowls, floats, whatever. You naturally need to be careful to not bend the floats if you take off the bowls. If you're taking the carbs completely apart, go ahead and soak all the pieces.

A nice thing about Pine-Sol is that you can use an open container and not get an offensive odor... just a clean smell.

It'll be a good idea to look at he stuff occasionally to be sure things aren't getting discolored or whatever... I've not had any issue with PineSol even after a couple of days soaking, but recommend that you check them anyway. I've soaked in some vinegar solution and although it will also clean them, I got some weird surface discoloration and texture... so I don't recommend vinegar.

When you get to the jets, you might want to get a guitar string for the small holes... I think it's an E string that you would need (whichever is the small one).

If you haven't done carbs before, I suggest that you take your time and lots of pictures... in order of disassembly... to make it easier to put them back together.

It's all easy, you just have to pay attention to details sometimes.

Others might have different suggestions... chime in guys.
 
tommycarl is right on the money. Too bad you don't have a ultrasonic cleaner as that gets everything. How bad were the fuel bowls inside? Give us some pictures of your progress. If we can see conditions of things we can maybe give you better advise or suggestions.
 
There aren't many passages in these carbs so you should be able to get them clean by using spray can carb clean if they dont look bad. If they look bad inside you will have to get more involved with soaking etc. Most of the time the pilot jets and the emulsion tubes are what cause the most problems with getting plugged. Beings these are the keyhole carbs you have an accelerator pump that the check balls also cause issues with sticking and the diaphram going bad. Unless someone has swapped carbs to the early style. Posting some good pictures on here would help to see what you have going on.
 
Alright! Sounds like I need to run to target! Going to get pinsol, or carb spray and maybe some compressed air. As soon as I figure out how to post pictures off my phone I will post..I have a Samsung S4..anybody got tips?
 
IMG_20141115_191427.jpg hopefully this works...
 
So I let carbs soak overnight. .I removed the floats and pulled the main jets and pilot screws and soaked them as well..I kept the carbs together and just removed the tops and bowls..should I have removed the jet needle and throttle valve? Or taken apart the accelerator pump?? Going to use a piece of guitar string to clean holes..am I missing anything?
 
Preferably you should disassemble as much as you can so that you get a thorough cleaning. Remove the accelerator pump too. You will probably need too or should replace that anyways with a new one. Many times that is a issue with those carbs. The main goal is to all the crud out of the carb passages. Inspect everything for galling, wear on the needle . When you get the new kit in it you will have a solid carb setup that you know is a good base for a nice running engine.
 
OK..So I went trough and cleaned the carb..let it soak in Pinsol and went through it with a wire brush and some compressed air..I didnt end up having a guitar string but did use a bread tie wire that I stripped down..Its all pit back together..Is there any adjusting I need to do 1st? When I look into the carb should all 4 valves be shut? Do pilot screws need set? I will post pics of what she looks like when I get home..Also noticed when putting the fuel valve back on the gas tank the tank was pretty low on gas..would this have caused the engine dying? Maybe gas was too low?
 
Good info here: http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/carb_info.html

The way you've described the petcock and low gas in the tank, I wouldn't be surprised if that was the main problem from the beginning. However, you're way smarter about carbs now, so wasn't a bad exercise.

It'll be a good idea also to put an inline paper gas filter on in case the tank has debris in it and would get the carbs dirty all over again.
 
I agree. .I like taking things apart and learning a thing or two..Got her all back together, but my battery is bad..I let it charge for a day and hooked it up after putting carb and air box back on. Well after about ten seconds of cranking she c was dead!! Battery read 12.3 before I tried to start it..When I turned the key though and the lights kicked on it was like 11.6! ! I'll have to go get a battery now it looks like...
 
Well after charging this battery for a couple hours she fired up!! Sounded great..now though the throttle seems to stick...like I kind of have to push it back forward. .also got the timing light out and started adjusting that..got the 1-4 to line up on the F mark at 1000 rpm and the 2-3 slightly off. Noticed the 1-4 exhaust was slightly cooler too..but...ran out of gas!!!! Work in progress!
 
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