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Well......it's starting to look like a motorcycle

Some....powder coating and got the frame installed back on the motor

Replacing pads doesn't necessarily require bleeding of the hydraulics. You may have a a problem with the master cylinder or the caliper piston however. Some pics of the caliper as mounted and of the master cylinder may help determine what is going on. When bleeding the caliper at the bleeder...

Erratic, or surging, idle is often a sign of the carb throttle plates not in synchronization. It will also show if the bike is rev'd to ~3500rpm and when the throttle is released, the rpm does not fall right back down to idle rpm (1000rpm) but will hang and return slowly. If you richened the...

So an oil leak in that area could be the tach drive seal or the valve cover gasket. The oil will travel during operation, so a way to trace the source is to clean the area and dust with Talcum Powder, then go for a ride. The oil will leave a track in the powder back to the source of the leak...

Yeah, that's really low compression that'll need corrected

Nice pipes at a value price: https://delkevic.com/complete-systems/honda/1978-models/cb750k-sohc/ IMO, cutting the headers at the footpeg area did not cause engine damage in itself. It may have caused the fuel air mix to be slightly leaner, but there had to be other things going on for damage...

Your numbers fall precisely in the series for the K5 (>2500001 and less than 2540001 of the K6)

When working on old bikes, one never knows with any job.....I suspect an hour if everything goes right and no shims need replaced - add a half hour for the first shim and 15min for each successive one and factor in things that are stuck that shouldn't be, things that need cleaned: call it 4 hrs

Can do....just remove the valve cover and follow the manual's procedure. Of course, you'll need the tool to hold the bucket depressed if you need to change shims

One of my suspicions on this symptom would be the accelerator pump, attached to #2 carb, may not be acting right (clogged or bad diaphragm). To test that, you can remove the float bowl and fill it ~ half full of gas (off the bike) and depress the actuating rod; it should shoot a spray of fuel at...

Book says diameter should be 275mm

If you must run pods, you will need to increase the Slow Jet size (perhaps 2-3 sizes: 40,42) http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/categories/carburetor/keihin-jetting/keihin-pilot-jets/n424-26-series-pilot-jet.html The CV carbs will be fine so long as the pod filter flange ID does not block the air...

What color wires ya got there at the dimmer switch? Also, what color wires are present at the fusebox (3 circuits)?

There should be a Brown/Red wire entering the dimmer switch that carries power from the fuse box to the dimmer switch

The picture in the instructions show a dial gauge on the valve spring - which is the normal method used to set cam timing in degrees of crank rotation BTDC for a given valve opening. I can't read German, but the right end of the camshaft appears to have stock timing index marks. Perhaps it...

If the carbs are otherwise clean and synchronized, a slight richening of the pilot circuit (fuel screw, bottom front of carb) may yield improvement

So there was a recall, back in the day, on the latch mechanism. If you have the original push lever installed, then both the cap and the latch have a long rivet securing them. The mushroomed end of the rivet needs carefully straightened or ground off and the rivet removed. If the recall has been...

11.46 is a really dead battery. Fully charged would normally read 12.8VDC

I'm not well versed in A-speak, but I believe they call it a Change Switch:

The first item to check would be the main fuse - don't know why it may have decided to blow. That's an awful long time for it to be idling: it's actually draining the battery a bit while idling, so 25min on a new (likely not fully charged) battery:shrug:

Very thorough explanation.......and you've eliminated most of the more common causes of the symptom. My guess, at this point, is that the valves on #3 have carbon or rust build-up on the seat and aren't completely sealing. That could've happened if they were left open during long-term storage...

Sometimes you can use a heat gun (hot air) and heat that aluminum screw head and pull it straight off, leaving the actual brass screw head. Or, you can cut the ear off the screw head. I would not alter the float bowl

'82 '82 CB750SC

backrest https://www.ebay.com/itm/285213095241 tank dents The Delkevic is an excellent exhaust

As the fuse did not blow it may not be a short or excess draw in the signal system. My first suspicion is that a condition existed wherein the the additional ~50watts of signaling load dropped the voltage available at the coils below a threshold to produce good spark (~11VDC). To test for that...

LOL..Good Morning! So, went to FL for a couple months...bought a '75 XS and a '77 XLCR (both while in FL)....came home and attempted to ready the XS for the Ozarks rally (replaced numerous bits)...did the Ozarks rally....now attempting to get the Harley roadworthy (sitting in a museum 10yrs...

It's a vacuum operated fuel valve and only lets fuel flow if the engine is running and producing vacuum