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Get a new head..its thrashed.

1980 CB750F.THANKS

OK, Thanks.

That looks like some sort of locking cruise control on your bars... it will take a little bit of time for those rings to seat back in, that's probably where your burn off is coming from, or blow by.

I'm thinking major vacumn leak...if carb and timing, pods are not the issue...problem occurs when engine is warm...and tolerances increase,performance is lowered. If you have gum out or any carburetor cleaner available lightly spray it around the head and see if idle picks up... could possibly...

We rebuild them to the modern style sprag type clutch to replace the three roller Style the outer cover is redrilled loctited... it will not need retourqing

....new calipers should do the trick.....

Yes you are overthinking it, I miss the brass ones,... like you said the plastic ones are non-adjustable so we have swapped them around to get basically the same measurement and what I call the same bounce when the carbs are turned upside down and lightly dropped like a drumstick... here's the...

K

Like I said it doesn't necessarily pertain to wheel bearings I've been a mechanic for over 30 years I'm fully aware of what wheel bearing replacement involves especially on a CB750, if you use stock parts for OEM style replacement parts it makes it easier for the next guy which is normally me...

Doesn't necessarily pertain to bearings...comes to any part...espially on a bike..its not always like on a car where you can just pull it over,..there's a reason why the litlle guys in Japan with there white coats and plastic hats did the r&d that they did...there smart.

Any sealed bearing will work.. and I hear this question a lot. Why not go with the OEM, sure you can save a few bucks..but you might rethink that with a "speed wobble" at 100 mph...or a rim lock up because the cheap skateboard bearings just said goodbye. Spend the extra money keep it genuine...

Carburetor.... Clean,clean,clean,...then clean again...and again.

I didn't even look at the posting date..

Pic #3,4,5,11are carb parts,

I took forever for me to find one that was reasonably priced, not dented and was'nt full of leaves and rust..this was dented and needed cleaning, in primer now.EBay

You might be surprised..it might just pop off with clean carbs,clean fuel and plugs.

Yep if it's sat for a amount of time doesn't take long for that gas to turn into peanut butter, it's not a difficult task just take your time and do one at a time, if you have an old hair dryer use it to warm up your boots it will make things a lot easier, if you take the airbox out make sure...

You would probably need to fabricate/modify something(cut,weld)...or find a set off another bike and drop it. Be careful going around corners

How long did you run that bike with the new plugs in it? One is slightly fouled the other doesn't look too bad a little lean but that's not too abnormal for that bike...compression check?

OK.

Awesome

Gentle taps...its probably got some sort of rtv holding it.

Tap with rubber mallet... if you're talking about the gear on the outer housing it is riveted on.

1972.

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That's the pickup I did on a rebuild a few years ago cb750f..and still managed to circulate oil...

Looks like ring material...what did the oil filter itself look like? It's an overhead cam motor so if any metal that started at the top would have to make its way all the way to the bottom(past the pistons).. so it's either going to go out the exhaust or back up into the head, did you pull your...

If you look at the uni air filter it has no structure, or frame it is just foam.. on a motocross bike we call it a cage or a frame and the filter would go around it, you really only need an oiled filter in severely dry and Dusty conditions hence Motocross or trail riding