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Sounds like that wire is your issue!

I looked him up. He's in St Louis, man. Sorry.

Try aluminum brazing rods. I can't guarantee they will work on the head but I also think they are a cheap option if it doesn't work out.

Look up Brick House Builds. He has a shop and works on bikes now. Not sure where he is, though. I feel like it's TN but I could be wrong.

Given how long it had been sitting, check the jets and piston valve of the carbs. Might as well clean all of them. If carbs are good, need to look at sparj. Cylinders 1 and 2 run off different coils so the coils are not the issue. But 1 and 2 could have bad caps, or bad wires, or poor...

You need a wiring diagram. Search the forum, I'd be willing to bet it is on here.

You don't have much clearance, I'm guessing it would have to be much stiffer. If it is really bad, you could go with a slightly taller rear suspension but keep in mind you are altering the bike's geometry and both riders will then be leaning a bit forward. Unless you find a slightly taller...

I'm not experienced in hoops, but the flare up at the end of the seat is usually right where the rider's ass ends. If you bend it up, your passenger is going to be leaning forward onto you instead of being upright.

Colorblind isn't going to help, damn. But can you tell the difference between black, white, and yellow?

No, it doesn't. Your wiring there is wrong.

That's a short seat for two up? Have you considered a longer loop?

Did you test each coil to make sure they weren't grounding out?

Great follow up! Rare to see people come back after their issue is resolved and detail it that well. Thanks.

check your spark plugs. If they are black, you need a lower main jet. If they are much cleaner, with only a small amount of grey, you need a larger main jet.

The owners manual for ALL metric bikes says oil must be JASM (?) rated.

If you buy aftermarket, use Amazon prime for free returns. Other than that, you're likely only going to find a used one

Yeah, getting that right isn't intuitive at first.

Might be cheaper to fix than replace. Get a quote!

Why do you need to replace yours?

Hey. I had the same issue with that light. I opted for not running driving lights. Bought a different brand for my honda 919 and everything works perfectly. Your issue is likely in the headlight circuitry, not your skills.

Look on ebay or marketplace?

Not exactly. This bike at idle will drain the battery faster than the charging system can replenish it. It isn't a modern car charging system. These old charging systems go bad for a variety of reasons (carbon build up, brushes wear down, wires become brittle, R/Rs fail) so don't be too...

Sounds like you need to empty the bowls. Might have gotten something in there and the agitation of the bike will eventually send it to the jets. When you shut the bike off, it settles to the bottom of the bowl again, allowing it to start and run... until it gets back to the jets.

It's a 750 but you don't have to open the throttle all way. Like he said, learn the bike. You can look for a list of things to check on the bike before you buy it (does it start easily cold, any rust in the tank, etc.).

To know the RPMs? I think there are apps out there that listen to the motor. Can't vouch for accuracy.

I'm not sure I understand your question. If the manual says use moly there, use moly there.

That specific grease is resistant to high heat and high pressure. It is mandatory to use that and avoid other grease or lubricants.

So true. That 500rpm is so ridiculous. But at 800 RPMs, is your oil pump running optimally?

I didn't use a delicate RPM gauge, just the stock one on the bike. But you do need something to set the idle correctly.

So, from the engine and on decel only? In need to think about that one.