View attachment 14330Gears will certainly slip if the clutch cable is adjusted wrong. No free-play, etc. If you don't already have a manual, believe it or not these days you can download one for free. Take a look here: http://manuals.sohc4.net/cb750k/
You'll want the K8 suppliment too, because your bike (and the K7) have some unique areas that may or may not align with the pages that deal with the older years.
Paint. If you end up needing to deal with the Honda decals, there is a decal removal tool, which is available at auto-paint stores (etc). It looks like a big round eraser on a drill arbor. Cost me...$20? One just needs to be careful not to "burn" (rub) through the paint. You want to save the paint as much as you can to serve as your primer base. Going down to bare metal is an epic pain in the kiester if you don't have all the trappings of an auto-painter.
The decal is under the clear-coat, so it will take time to get off. Start at the edge of the decal and work inward. If you've ever used a buffer on your car, etc. you know. Ya just don't hold the thing in one spot too long or you'll go into the paint. Could easily take an hour or more to do. If the base paint itself isn't too damaged and you don't have dents to contend with, you might be able to just remove the decal and save the paint.
Yup. I did a suzuki tank. Just about done. Last is to wet sand and polish the clear. It was painted with the original decals on the tank as they were in excellent condition.
The 750 has some dings and rust spots. so it will need a black respray, but I don't plan to strip it down to bare.
Here's the Suzuki I'm about done with.
For the clutch/gear. will open a new thread out of this one when I'm closer.
They are factory original. I managed to preserve them as they were in excellent shape. The suzuki only has about 4500 miles .
If it were not for the dents and 1 heavy scratch I removed, the tank would have been in great shape.
This is after the base is shot and after removing the masking from the stripes, but before 6 coats of clear.
CB900c was what my brother had. Shaft drive made it seem to raise up during takeoff. Or was it liftoff? Pipes sounded musical too. Oh, and those adjustable air shocks were pretty trick. I like my CB750, the the 900c was definitely more comfortable on longer rides.
CB900c was what my brother had. Shaft drive made it seem to raise up during takeoff. Or was it liftoff? Pipes sounded musical too. Oh, and those adjustable air shocks were pretty trick. I like my CB750, the the 900c was definitely more comfortable on longer rides.
Hi guys, I'm baaaack (again)
Was looking at CL during the packers game and this popped up. 2 hours later it was in my van.
The only motorcycle I ever bought new was a 1982 CB900F. So this one might hang around a while.
Guy's dad also bought one new but sold it, so he found this fine example in 1987 and kept it, went to the son when dad passed. He had done some maint but it just wasn't his thing and it still needed more work done.
Put 15 miles on it tonight, just needs a normal round of maint., fork seals, brake pads, the tail light doesn't, tires are 20 years old, few other minor items, runs out good and when I asked, the guy had the factory airbox too! So into the van it went. I didn't see any bad work done anywhere. 15K miles showing which seems to match the bikes wear.
Added a voltmeter today. Well, finished it after 2 weeks, anyway. Built it out of sheet metal, soldering the seams. Instrument cluster is lit with green so opted for a green LED. Took off the original super thin wires and soldered slightly larger gauge on. Positive wire goes to the fuse panel and is soldered to the bar across the top that feeds all the fuses, negative is grounded to the instrument cluster mount. Both wires have bullet connectors so it can be removed easily.
Reads 11.6V in the picture without the bike running, but did go ride tonight and it displayed the charging system voltage all the way to 14V around 4k RPM. Will be great to know the second the charging system isn't working!
Funny you mention it. I looked into that. That voltmeter is the smallest I could find; .25". The housing for the voltmeter is too big for that window. And even if you could fit it, that window has an etching on it that didn't let the LED light through well, plus it has a red tint. unless you had a red or clear bulb as an indicator light for something, I think that spot is useless.
I also toyed with the idea of cutting a small window in the fuse box cover but couldn't bring myself to ruin a part they don't make anymore. And I would have to find a way to make the fuses mini instead of bus because it is pretty cramped in there.
One I did one on an XS650, used to be rear brake lining warning bulb WTF.
Trimmed off the red LED voltmeter's mounting tabs, used some clear epoxy to fill the ridges on the back of the red plastic and just potted the LED in it.
Would need to get rid of the black mask. I'm hoping to get an extra top cover so I can mess with one.
This is a great thread and so many different type builds. Here's mine, a 1978 with a 97 Suzuki GSXR front end swap, custom seat from a 2000 MV Agusta 750F4, custom tank etc. etc.
Hi Tink, I see you have different front and back wheels.
Did you stick with the original back and do the GSXR front conversion? I’m about to do the same. I would love GSXR on rear as well but I think it’s a massive headache.
Slmjim & Z1BEBE: VERY cool that you ride together.
DragonRider: I'm a big fan of lighting. The dragon head is Fn' killer. KILLER I say. Quite like the light on the sissybar too. For low-flying aircraft no doubt. Very nice. Is one headlight the high beam, or do they both work together. Would like to see a daytime side-view pic. Can tell that there are scales, want to see them better.
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