Hey Everyone,
I just rebuilt the carbs on my 1978 K8.
I had an issue with a vacuum leak before so while changing the boots I used the opportunity to buy rebuild kits for the carburetors.
-replaced all the jets apart from the slow jet (as a new one wasn't included in the kit), Gaskets, O-rings, Floats, float valves, and 3.5/4.5mm lines between carbs.
- confirmed same sizes of replacement jets also match oem spec for stock airbox
- Did not change to the new needles that were in the kit
-Checked the float height and adjusted all to within .5mm
-Bench synced carbs
So far the bike seems to run a touch better as there is no obvious vacuum leak and my RPM is constant.
BUT I still cant get the bike to idle under 3000 rpm when warm. Also now choke has to be on to start when warm as well.
Am I correct in thinking the bike is too lean? had set the pilot screw 1.5 turns out as per spec. Would turning it out a bit help me or should I try swapping the needles?
Thanks!!!
I just rebuilt the carbs on my 1978 K8.
I had an issue with a vacuum leak before so while changing the boots I used the opportunity to buy rebuild kits for the carburetors.
-replaced all the jets apart from the slow jet (as a new one wasn't included in the kit), Gaskets, O-rings, Floats, float valves, and 3.5/4.5mm lines between carbs.
- confirmed same sizes of replacement jets also match oem spec for stock airbox
- Did not change to the new needles that were in the kit
-Checked the float height and adjusted all to within .5mm
-Bench synced carbs
So far the bike seems to run a touch better as there is no obvious vacuum leak and my RPM is constant.
BUT I still cant get the bike to idle under 3000 rpm when warm. Also now choke has to be on to start when warm as well.
Am I correct in thinking the bike is too lean? had set the pilot screw 1.5 turns out as per spec. Would turning it out a bit help me or should I try swapping the needles?
Thanks!!!