Sorry.. I didn't read your question right. I thought you were referring to my throttle cable stiffness which feels relatively tight to me compared to other throttle cables I've adjusted. Were you referring to the throttle plate/carb body tightness/smoothness?
Yes. The throttle or the chokes should not be tight. Same goes for your throttle cables. If the cables are stiff, try lubing or better still just replace them. They are cheap to buy. None of this will solve your flooding however. But, while you are working on the carb problem you should also fix any bad cables or stiff throttles and chokes. Are you going to keep both threads going here? I'm not going to keep answering both, it's getting too confusing.
Turned out that all the throttles were NOT the same as carb 2. I believe they were binding up due to the oxidized aluminum. Carb 4 especially, would not close enough to cover the transfer ports. I have a suspicion that this could have been causing my rich mixture. I have since gone back to another set which are not oxidized and the throttle plates operate smoothly and register the same as carb 2.
? I literally described what I found out.
I did go through them. But if the throttle plates are binding against the oxidized aluminum bodies, I don't know how I will resolve that issue. I couldn't sand them down, but I don't want to create more of a mess than I already have. So I'm going to try this other set, and that will also verify whether it is gas or oil in the cylinder.
We're talking about millimeters here.. that's how I didn't notice it. Lubricating the shaft isn't going to do a thing if the throttle plate physically cannot close.
The throttle plate as you call it is attached with 2 screws to the shaft. It is the shaft that is tight in the body of the carb. That is common for carbs that have sat. That is a 5 minute fix. But how did you not notice that while they were apart? Now you are starting all over again with another set which doesn't make sense.