Bike stored for 29 years - tips welcomed on engine oil flush and prep before startup

So the first cleaning wasn't as thorough as the first. I found on the second attempt that I could remove the slow jets and they were clogged! It ran after that but not liking the throttle. The third cleaning was a full teardown. Took bodies off the rack and everything, I was hoping it was the airbox, but now I'm not sure. Accel pump cleaned as well. I have yet to try running it after this third cleaning.
Ill have a look for this PDF on carb synching. it has to be done, I haven't started it yet.
As for the mixture screws, I set them all to 1.5 turns out as a "starting" point - pun intended.
Also I noticed the needle clips were in the leanest position so I put them to the center position to richen it up a bit.

I cant synch the carbs until I get it running consistently :)

Could you direct me to this PDF on carb synching? I don't see a place where the moderators have put a sticky for common requests.
cheers!
 
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only the CV type carbs used on the dohc dont like pods. The keyhole carbs are harder to tune then the roundtops. It will run better with the stock air box but they will run well with pods after you spend time and tune it right.
 
The accel pump is critical for throttle response and low rpm running. The pump is very picky and hard to prime if it has been run out of fuel or been sitting for many years. The check ball in the pump cover tends to stick as it is the lowest point and all the crap settles in it. If fuel doesnt squirt out of all 4 carbs you will have hesitation and stumbling and either the squirters are plugged or you have air in the pump system. Most times I take the carbs off and keep pumping the accel pump till fuel squirts out of all 4, dont do it on the bike or you will flood the motor. It can take many pumps to get it bled out.
 
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