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1979 750l blowing ignition fuse

Emarcottesr

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One of the brushes to the stator was jammed I got it free but now when I turn the ignition on it blows the 10 Amp fuse. Not sure what's going on here and I'm learning as I go and having a rough go of it. I've pushed this bike more than I've ridden it but after learning the sins and outs of the carbs I'm into the electrical now. Ultimately I'm trying to get it to stop missing. It idles great but there's hesitation and misfires when riding
 
It's the fuse that's on the starter solenoid. It blows soon as I turn the bike on with a 10amp fuse. Didn't use to when the charging system wasn't working.
 
Hopefully someone with a deeper knowledge than mine comes in. All I can suggest is starting with that fuse and start chasing it both directions until you find an obvious issue like frayed wires grounding, two heat leads touching, etc.
 
Yeah I replaced it with a 30 amp fuse but something had to be crossed somewhere cause now soon as I plug in the charging system the battery drops from 12 volts down to 9 and I noticed one of the brushes started getting so hot it was smoking. This is all with the engine off but the ignition turned to the on position
 
Colorblind isn't going to help, damn. But can you tell the difference between black, white, and yellow?
 
Black and white I got figured out but what other people call yellow I call anything from green to orange
I use the meter gauge to find out what’s hot and what’s not but the black wire with a white stripe showed a way higher voltage than the colored wire and I was sure that the positive side was where I disconnected the black and white wire originally but after gaining some newfound insight into how electricity works there’s no reason why the negative side wouldn’t be carrying a higher voltage
 
So the black and white is 1000% the positive side. I hook the negative lead of the multimeter to the black side and the positive to the color side and it gives me a negative voltage reading when reversed I get 12volts
 
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