Not sure from your pictures but the heavy gauge metal side of the two piece collars goes towards the engine. The one piece collars will have a gap between it and the cylinder head. It does look like too much thread sticking past the nuts, usually not that much thread sticking out after the nuts...
Also we have the inherent fuel flow of these bikes. I think it's less than a 2 inch drop from petcock to fuel inlet on the carbs, that's not much fuel pressure pushing up on those floats. I always thought these bikes would benefit from an electric fuel pump, I'm soon gonna find out.
Yeah, when in the business using spot putty is frowned on. Chopped fiberglass filler for deep dents, plastic body filler for shallow dents and over chopped fiberglass filler.
Whatever ring terminals you use, A 30 amp circuit terminal should be crimped and soldered. If I have to use a connector from downtown I cut the plastic insulator off, crimp, solder. shrink wrap.
There are usually 2 sizes of Orings in the rebuild kits that look like the right ones for the fuel rails. Use the one that the Oring stands ABOVE the fuel rail. The thin size is only flush with the fuel rail, not thick enough. Even when using the thicker size one they're just tight enough. I...
I take it that this is an apology to someone that tried to help you in the way that he saw helpful and you responded by calling him an asshole and a dick? Pretty lame apology. If this forum is ever going to wake up and grow, this shit can't happen.
I just refurbed three banks of carbs. One bank was misaligned and had sticky choke before I disassembled it, one pilot screw tip was broken and stuck in the carb body on the same set of carbs, definitely the reasons this bike was parked years ago. I found out that there was a slight change in...