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You need a body shop guy that sandblasts and welds.

Looks like he put a big hole in it with a welder.

Fix the charging issue. The ignition needs electricity to work. A battery discharged to 11 volts may not even run an engine at all.

I can use almost any tool with finesse, but a sewing machine, I cannot understand how they work. Nice job.

Not sure from your pictures but the heavy gauge metal side of the two piece collars goes towards the engine. The one piece collars will have a gap between it and the cylinder head. It does look like too much thread sticking past the nuts, usually not that much thread sticking out after the nuts...

Also we have the inherent fuel flow of these bikes. I think it's less than a 2 inch drop from petcock to fuel inlet on the carbs, that's not much fuel pressure pushing up on those floats. I always thought these bikes would benefit from an electric fuel pump, I'm soon gonna find out.

Are you sure that all cylinders are running? Your description sounds like running on three cylinders and firing once in a while.

Yeah, when in the business using spot putty is frowned on. Chopped fiberglass filler for deep dents, plastic body filler for shallow dents and over chopped fiberglass filler.

Whatever ring terminals you use, A 30 amp circuit terminal should be crimped and soldered. If I have to use a connector from downtown I cut the plastic insulator off, crimp, solder. shrink wrap.

There are usually 2 sizes of Orings in the rebuild kits that look like the right ones for the fuel rails. Use the one that the Oring stands ABOVE the fuel rail. The thin size is only flush with the fuel rail, not thick enough. Even when using the thicker size one they're just tight enough. I...

I use a violin string.

Brushes?

I take it that this is an apology to someone that tried to help you in the way that he saw helpful and you responded by calling him an asshole and a dick? Pretty lame apology. If this forum is ever going to wake up and grow, this shit can't happen.

I just refurbed three banks of carbs. One bank was misaligned and had sticky choke before I disassembled it, one pilot screw tip was broken and stuck in the carb body on the same set of carbs, definitely the reasons this bike was parked years ago. I found out that there was a slight change in...

LA's Totally Awesome will turn carbs black.

Call you Sherlock.

Does your choke cable work well. Does your choke fully open?

Somehow I think you have misunderstood me. There has to be slack in the throttle cables. There must be slack in the throttle cables. There should be slack in the throttle cables. The handlebar throttle should feel like it has some slack before it turns the bell crank on the carbs. The cable...

Throttle cables need some slack in them or the idle will be wonky. Vacuum leaks will cause idle problems. check your vacuum port on carb #2, if leaking............ Forget about carb #2, doesn't apply here. Haven't you posted all of this before? What advice have you used so far?

What bike do you have, year and model? Count your teeth on the front and back sprockets. Something strange could have been done with your sprocket sizes.

Not sure about aftermarket shocks. OEM is a 10mm x 32mm bolt.

UP :)

Something I should have mentioned, the caps come off and go on easier when the top triple tree clamps are loosened.

Yeah, drain the oil before taking the caps off, push the bike down hard a few times, put the drain bolts back in. Prop the bike up. Unhook the air assist if you have it then take the caps off, they are under spring pressure. replace the oil after dropping the springs in. How much oil? See a...

So, If I remember right, spring then washer then spacer.

Every spring change that I've done had the spacer on top. Some spring manufacturers recommend that you cut your own spacers from PVC pipe. I cut the spacers long enough to be able to barely push the cap down and thread it with the bike on center stand and front propped up, or fork legs off the bike.

Like Loose Chain said, new isn't always good. Those aftermarket solenoids can be junk right out of the box. Have you checked the fuse at the solenoid? Try not to replace more than one thing at a time, makes diagnosing go better.

No horn makes me think that the battery is weak. Have you tried it with a different battery or have you checked the voltage at the battery? Voltage and amps are two different things, so.............that's not always a good indicator.

First thing that comes to mind is your starter switch. Is it the stock type or aftermarket? I ask because the OEM switch has multiple switches in there. It turns off the headlight when pushing the button and turns it back on when the button is released. Any other switch than the OEM might be a...