Search results

That's great so have I... You need to remember this isn't a competition and everything I said I said jokingly and sarcastically and once again I said this is for a dohc... But the principles I also said remain the same.. as far as sft and top dead center... Take it easy buddy.. those are basic...

I agree and I also stated dirt digger that this was for a double overhead cam we're all fully aware of how to time a dyna ignition,..maybe you would like to explain now how to set the gap on old style points...lol, thanks

Here's a solution, just put a dohc engine in it and call me later.. JK JK... You guys have a good day and I hope everything works out for you going to be 100° today in Oklahoma trying to get my stuff done early!

Wrenched and rode for both Honda and Yamaha for years..just put this together this Winter.. if your assembly is correct, timing is just a matter of tuning, I said good luck and investing in a quality timing light probably wouldn't hurt.

I explained that that was for a double overhead cam Timing principals still remain the same

I realize now that he has a different ignition...still times to the f mark...and t is top dead center ...that does not change...timing principles are the same.

Good luck

Yes that's a different ignition..same principles exis.

There aren't.. there should be a S...a, F...and a T.... When piston 1 and piston 4 are at top dead center on the compression stroke.. timing is correct when the projection on the pulse generator and the rotor lines up... The f is your timing mark running at about 1000-1200 RPM.... That is for...

You only time on the number one cylinder.

Cheers

I have a set here that's all there except for gaskets

No prob

Patience grasshopper.....

Double check plugs,wires, coil etc... If you have a multimeter you can check your coils etc, I think you found your main issue right there.. when something cuts out or stops working in electrical it's normally bad (loose) grounds etc... What about a compression test? Has that been done on all...

Well I have seen people think they have a dead cylinder/carb issue... And on 750 s with the airbox isn't always the easiest thing to do if you haven't done it before... Just to find out they've got a dead plug and a cold pipe.. plugs tell the story

Weld

I have service manuals... I used to race and work for Honda

Try to keep carburetor cleaners like gumout away from your gaskets and any rubber parts.. it can ruin your whole day

68/102 is correct for stock jetting... Never let your bike run for 5 minutes at 4,000 rpm.. after you run it for a little bit check your plugs for lean, rich, cold or hot.. that would be a good starting point because your plugs tell the story of what's happening as far as combustion.

It's a fully transistorized ignition system this solid state system unlike conventional ignition systems, does not use breaker points, when the race portion on the crankshaft driven rotor isis one of the cylinder pulser generator, a pulse is generated within the pickup coil this pulse...

That bike consists of this..2 ignition coils,2 spark units,a capacitor discharge ignition (CDI)unit,and four spark plugs.

Kehein VB42A or VB43C

Double check the installation of the actuator itself where the cable hooks to the clutch basket case... When it is installed it should be almost pointed towards the rear tire not where it was when you pulled it off or you think it might end up I see it a lot.

New motor for cb750f

Cool you can pick one up relatively cheap (used).. it's a common problem with those rivets especially after time.. what we also see is when you put your cover back on make sure your arm where your cable will connect to is pointing almost towards the rear tire... Not where you think it is going...

Oklahoma USA.. Good luck.

Check your clutch basket... On most 750 models they are riveted...

Most of that stuff is interchangeable frame, motor, is the same.