Search results

As usual, you are a wealth of information, thanks digger.

Charging System My K6 charging system is producing 11.2 volts at the battery at idle. It increases to 12.1 around 2500 rpm and the battery runs down on rides over 20 miles. The battery was load tested and is good, the rectifier and regulator are new (replaced original components with a...

Excellent guidance, thank you. I'll give the choke trick a try. I know 3 of the 4 spark plugs are black which tells me I have a fuel mixture issue.

Digger, thanks for point out all the variables. It isn't stock but has a cam and I punched it out to 856. It doesn't have the stock airbox but has pods and has a 4 into 1 exhaust. Two of the pipes are pretty bent from being dropped somewhere along the way. Jets (and total carb rebuild parts)...

I have real hesitation on the first third on the throttle. Beyond that acceleration is excellent. Any thoughts?

I do have a clymer but that isn't the one I'm reading. Attached is a cover pic as well as the page from it I'm talking about. Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

I need to balance the carbs on my K6. In reading the Honda Shop Manual for this bike there is a Throttle Stop Valve on the carbs and it is pictured in the manual. This is the valve used to adjust the vacuum. The problem is that my carbs don't have this screw installed and I believe these to...

Interesting enough, thanks. Changing subjects to the starter. The K6 starter switch (which I moved with the motor) has five leads three of which are from the starter button (the other two to the engine kill switch). The k3 wire harness (on the frame I moved the k6 motor to) has two leads on...

Amazing... change one connection in the wiring harness and everything is as it should be including the brake light. I appreciate both of you digger and amc49 helping me think through this. On to the starter issue.

It's apparent that I didn't get the wiring right when I put the motor in the frame with different wire harnesses as the switch isn't behaving as the documentation digger provided indicated it should (position 2 and 3 are reversed). I put a K6 motor in a K3 frame. The wiring diagrams are the...

amc49, thanks for clearing that up. My skill with the tester is suspect. I still have the issue of no lights when I have power to the ignition. The power supply to the coil is constant in the first ignition switch position (where I have no lights). When I hit the second switch position I...

Digger, your logic is unassailable. I embarrassingly admit I cannot locate a power supply to the coils. I see where the ignition wiring comes into each coil and where it goes out to the plugs. There is one wire common between the coils (black/white) however, it is not a power supply (I...

Thanks dirtdigger. It must be a difference in the wire harnesses between the two years. In the on position I don't get lights, in the park position I get lights, no ignition. I suppose I could bypass the ignition switch with a kill switch to the electronic ignition wiring. What a pisser.

Ignition It looks like the power supply stops when I put the ignition switch in the third position (go with lights) using a tester. I then tested power at the ignition switch. The black wire (the same one used at the brake switch I connected the electronic ignition to) has power in the...

Proximity. Based on these comments I'll take power from the coil supply. I hadn't considered inadequate power supply. Thanks for the comments.

I put a K6 motor in a K3 frame (and K3 wire harness). The ignition switch is a three position switch (off, start, start with lights). I replaced the old point ignition system with an electronic ignition and used power from the brakes wire to power the electronic ignition. It runs well in the...