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Nice, will you be lacquering them?

I did ask David Silver here in England if they had any plans to remanufacture these tensioners, the short answer was "No". Surprising considering the potential demand.

One can always hope! Is there no one in the UK capable of making these things, even in the EU perhaps?

Forget that awful vacuum operated thing. Run a line direct from the tank to the carbs. Fit a filter in the line too. Block off the vac pipe on no.2 carb as well.

Tried that, with Vaseline. The damn things just slid off again.:banghead:

Thanks. Worth remembering.

One of the easier things on those engines! :cussing:

As regards the pistons and bores, best thing is to get them checked for ovality and taper A local engine shop should be able to do that for you if you don't have the gear to do that. When you refit the engine to the frame. The books say fit the carbs with the engine in place. Not forgetting to...

Yes, I am wary of heating plastic, it can suddenly distort or melt. That would have been my next move! Didn't need to though. Thanks anyway. :thumbsup:

Hi, These studs are difficult to find. Their part# is 90031445003 CMS in Holland show them but as 0 stock. They might be able to find some, also try David Silver. Have you remove the cylinder block yet? That too can be a nightmare as well due to the studs seized to the block. :mad: If you do...

Refitting carbs to the engine with the engine in the frame had me pulling my hair out, there's not much left now! Problem was the tubes were new and tight and inflexible. I just could not get behind them to push on to the cylinder head. I eventually came up with this idea of using ratchet straps...

It works, did my centre stand took several days but no more rust.

Hi, Initially follow the manuals and see what happens. Bleed the left side 1st as it is slightly longer due to the cross over pipe. Fill the master cylinder with the handle bar to the left (keeps the reservoir level). If doing it by the manual does not give you a solid lever, not soft or...

I will be fitting Avon tyres to my 83 CB750. Different bike though.

Having reached the stage in my rebuild of fitting the front brakes I ran into problems bleeding the air out. Rebuilt calipers, new pads and new braided brake lines. Following the manual(s) resulted in a very soft brake lever, several attempts at bleeding produced no improvement, the lever almost...

Tap it off with a brass drift. It sounds like the pistons are seized to the bores. You will have lots of fun with that engine, not!:(

Sure is.

Close call that :wink2: that's what the 2 thou clearances can do. :mad:

Hi and welcome to the site. This is a copy/paste from a post of mine to some one else. Just being lazy Apart from oil changes/air filters etc. etc check out below. It's an awkward job but check your valve clearances. Very often they have not been checked for years and will have closed up. It's...

A question, the front right brake hose, what is it connected to? It should go up to the forks to a connecting tube which connects both front brake hoses to the front brake master cylinder hose. Nice bike though. PS. It's an awkward job but check your valve clearances. Very often they have not...

If you want I can send you some pics of my bikes' arrangement. The splitter you have is not a Honda part, someone has bodged his brakes in the past. Retired Kamikaze pilot perhaps. My bike is the UK spec CB750 F2C 1983. There is a slight difference due to the fairing fitted to this version, the...

You would fit used brake hoses, perhaps 40 years old? :confused: What price your life should one fail on that once-in-a-lifetime emergency stop? Don't risk it to save a few $.

I may be too late here but before you rip into the carbs think about this. Fuel in the tank, is it fresh or has been there for months? Stale fuel does not ignite easily. With the fuel tap "on" does fuel run easily out with the pipe disconnected or does it just dribble out. Dribbles? gummed up...

That looks OK. Have you measured them up to check they are within spec for length? It might be that they have compressed from usage and are now too short and weakened. When I was in the trade we tested springs for how much they compressed for a given weight. Not sure what the spec is for that...

those valve springs look a bit rusty, will you be replacing them? Nice clean engine.

Oh, that's a shame, he did tend to be somewhat blunt though. Not that it bothered me.

Well the speedo says 18400, but that doesn't mean much, with a bike this old. It's condition that's important.

Did you ever resolve the problem with the primary chain tensioner? I did ask David Silver if they had any plans to remanufacture these parts? "No" was the short blunt answer. There must be a market for these given the 1000s of these engines still around.

Hi, Your best course of action is to take the cylinder block to a motorcycle engine specialist who has a good reputation and who can take accurate measurements looking for bore tapering, and ovality. If a rebore is required than that will involve new oversize pistons and rings. The old pistons...

Looking good. Like me torn between riding and restoration. Sometimes too hot for both, 44c in my shed the other day!:cool: