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I know this has been addressed before (I've read most of the threads trying to solve this problem) but having tried most of the methods listed, I still cant seem to pin this one down. I rebuilt the top end on my 73 CB750K and have it up and running, except for a hanging idle and sometimes...

So with your advice, I got this one sorted out, I had adjusted the idle screw a second time when it would not fire and forgotten about it doh!. Got it up and drivable, made one short pass on it, and it stalled. Seemed to be running rich, so I got it up and going again and adjusted mix, but...

So, this is it, the last thing to do on my build before the bike is up and running, and it is stumping me. I rebuilt the carbs when I rebuilt the top end of the engine, and thoroughly cleaned them and bench synced them at the time. I am running pod filters and a 4-1 exhaust, and when I first...

Alright, here are the rest of the parts I have up for sale. If you have any questions about condition or would like more pictures, please ask and I would be happy to answer them. Again all prices are OBO, and if you see something you like, but not the price, just make an offer. 1973 CB750...

I have quite a few spare parts left over from two builds, mostly '73 and '78F, but some from other bikes and periods as well. All Prices are OBO, if you see something you like, but not the price, just go ahead and make an offer. 1978 CB750F Oil Tank - $25 CB550 Rear Fender, will need to be...

Thanks everybody, I have it now, and the bike is done!

I've finally got my '72 rebuilt and running, and am on to adjusting the carbs. I have pods so I will be rejetting, but for the time being, I just want to get it to a functional state. I looked in the manual, and it depicts a very large multi-slotted airscrew. This is of course nowhere to be...

Up for sale are two top triple clamps, one is a '77-78, and the other is an '81. The '81 has the hardware for mounting the handle bar clamps, the '77-78 does not. I will add pictures tonight. $40ea including shipping. Both are in solid working shape, but have some paint flaking.

Looking for the top clamp for a 73 I am working on. doesn't need to be pretty, just functional and with the original risers still cast in place. Thanks, Lance

So I'm nearing completion on my 1973 Cb750 build, and decided to wire it up with a Motogadget M-Unit Basic. Everything had been going well, and I was sorting through my ignorance of wiring switches to ground side when I hit a snag. I had just finished rectifying some ground issues, and had...

@dirtdigger, you were right about the oil ring, the lower section of the ring in the #1 cylinder had become slightly kinked. I'm going to double check in the bottom end and make sure theres no other issues. Thankfully I'd bought spare ring sets, so that was an easy replacement.

I'll start pulling it back apart then.

So I'm currently working on a top end rebuild for a 1972 CB750. When I got the bike, the engine turned over easily, but as it hadn't been run in a while and I had no idea on the internal condition of the engine, I decided to do a top end rebuild just to be safe. I tore it down with minimal...

Hi AMC, Thanks, I'll measure the hole. It seemed to fit well, was shiny, but showed almost no wear which is what made me suspicious. As you pointed out changes were made on the spot if necessary, and I think that may just be the case. For as good as it looks, there is no way it has worn off...

Unfortunately I don't have a welder, so that bit may get outsourced. Also, on the transmission drum, I've mic'd both sides, the large side is well within spec, the small side is way below spec. While it doesn't appear to be very worn, spec for the small side is .5154" and the actual...

Sorry should've explained, it is a street bike, I'm building a street tracker. I hadn't planned on replacing the cam and primary chains but I will now. I definitely plan on putting in heavy duty studs. i have two of the old ones stuck right now though, broke off at the base of the top threaded...

Thanks guys, especially the info on turbulence horsepower and the comment on Carrillo rods. I was considering them and you guys just saved me a lot of money. On a side note, the $100 APR bolt upgrade for the super rods...worth it? Digger - I probably will message you as the build goes on...

From about 3:45-9:00 this guy goes over finding the numbers, deciphering them, and using them to determine which bearings you need. Its really helpful and goes through every step from locating them to determining which bearing you need...

I've finally gotten my engine torn down and since I'm going to rebuild at 836CC, I decided to go with new rods. Now I'm considering a new crank as well. Looking at the Cycle X race cranks, they list that the balance holes have been welded to reduce turbulence. How much of an issue is this...

So after quite a bit of headache I got the fork finished. Aaaaand it was my fault. At some point the oil seal the dampening rod seats into had com out and was sitting on the workbench next to the forks. Once I reinstalled it, the damping rod tightened right down and everything fits perfectly...

Hi Dave, I'll give that a go, never thought of taping on, but I'll give anything a go. Thanks

Welp tried that too, can't get enough force down on it to get the cap on with a spacer and the damper won't tighten by any of the other above means so I think this one is going in the scrap heap. Shame it was tight when I tore it down but now it just doesn't seem to want to work.

@amc49, I know teflon tape is a bad idea, just running low on options. The springs are shorter than stock, they're the race tech springs for that model. I have a preload piece of pvc, but I could try running the preload pvc piece with the stock spring, that would bump pressure way up. @medyo...

So chased the threads and raised a burr, unfortunately the rod is still spinning. Any more ideas? A bit of plumbers tape on the nipple of the damping rod to tighten it up maybe?

Thanks Guys! I'll give that a go when I tear it back down tomorrow. I'm not sure I have the correct tap here, but I likely do at work. I tried cleaning it out with a brush and pick, but that may not have gotten all of it.

So I tried that technique again and got the screw a little tighter and thought it would be ok. Its not. Any other ideas on how to get it tightened down? Thanks, Lance

@Dave Thats correct, screw (#19) through the fork slider into #8. Just assembled, and with spring pressure, it pulls the screw up tight, but the rod is still spinning even under spring pressure. Once pressure is remove, the screw again has a few mm of in out play. Thanks, Lance

So while I'm gathering funds to do more work to the motor, I'm working on rebuilding my front suspension. I got it apart no problem, and got in springs and emulators from race tech and new seals from all-balls. I'm reassembling the forks now, and the first one went together like a dream. The...

I'm looking at ordering the race tech emulators for the front forks on my 78 750f, and wasn't sure what the model number was for the size that will fit our 35mm forks. I've read great reviews about them, but can't figure out which model I need. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks Dirtdigger. I'm going to start inspection get motor next week, so we will see how everything looks then. I'll definitely pick up the new chains though.