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I have been purchasing parts from https://www.vintagecb750.com/. I have gotta a bunch of carb rebuild kits and various carb components from them and they all seem to be pretty quality parts. I’m sure more experienced folks here have better insight on this but figured I’d add my two cents.

I’m glad you could get a chuckle lol. Good luck with your stuff!

I know I can get it done, just need to take my time and do it right! Thank you for the channel recommendations!

I appreciate your response and fully understand I could make things worse but not following the proper precautions. This was bought as a no title parts bike that seemed to be in decent enough shape for me to want to keep it and bring it back to life. I’m not trying to rush into getting it...

I was trying to get the starter motor spinning using a remote switch. That was the goal of this thread, getting the starter motor spinning to do a compression test. I'd appreciate it if you just understood that my inexperience with this all has lead you to think this has all been for nothing...

I was trying to get some guidance from people who know what they are talking about. I obviously do not have a strong enough grasp on the entirety of the bike to be going back and forth trying to troubleshoot. So I will leave the thread here and not bother you or others with trying to diagnose...

Sounds good. I appreciate the help you've provided in this thread. My apologies if I am too new at this to be asking questions. I'll crack down and get to learning some important information before wasting peoples time.

Great question, hence why I was trying to bypass with the remote starter but those puny wires are a waste of time.

Yes that is what I meant my apologies. Cable from starter motor went on the M post on the relay, positive battery on the BAT post of the relay.

I did not due to the fuse being snapped.

Neither, currently there is no key switch, coming in the mail, and I didnt press the button. The new relay had the positive and negative leads connected to the posts, it blew the second I plugged in the 4 pin connector to the top of it.

The switch is hooked up and it is an M MATI brand.

Well it wasnt broken whilst testing it in earlier posts, the fuse actually snapped when a friend of mine knocked it off the counter and it fell on the floor.

Yes it is

I’m not entirely sure what the proper way is at this point. There’s been alot going on in this thread and I’m doing my best to absorb any knowledge I can. My apologies if it seems as though I’m clueless, I truly want to learn and understand the process.

If you look at the little notches on that four pin connector, OEM they face away from the posts, replacement they face towards. Which looking at how the posts are swapped, the flow of power should also be swapped so that shouldn’t be the issue.

The OEM relay has the motor pst on the left, and the bat on the right. This one is flopped from that, having the motor post on the right side. From a video I watched with someone using the same kind of relay as me, they show it being installed, then in the final startup its magically back to...

It is one from amazon... and yes the new switch was installed. I believe the four pin connector needs to be rearranged in comparison to the oem relay. This relay came without pinouts, what did I expect with a cheap relay.... This is the one I ordered...

Quick update, I just attempted to plug up the new relay, the second I plugged the 4 pin connector into the top of it the fuse blew. I’m unsure of anywhere that a short could be happening. This wiring harness has seen better days but I am not so quick to just blame it on an old harness.

count me in!

This was a reading done across the positive and negative posts of the relay, but the reason for the drop was likely due to the small gauge of the remote starter. Like I said in a previous post, I have a new relay on the way that I will try with, I have a good feeling this current relay is not...

I will definitely try not to let it spark like that again! I am most certainly going to replace the wire going from the relay to the motor and the battery to the relay. The Relay to motor doesn’t look too bad, neither does the post on the starter but it doesn’t hurt to get new. I’m really glad...

Some updates here. Starter seems to be fine, also seems pretty clean under the side cover. I have a new relay and a real handlebar starter button coming tomorrow so I’ll keep yall updated! Thank for the help thus far!

Understood, thanks for your help.

This is where I have the button hooked to now, and reading across those two spots that the clips are connected to when the button is pressed has it go down to 8 volts. Where would the trigger wire be?

Looks like when the button is pressure the volts shoot way down, between 6-8 volts. Then after a few clicks there’s a faint burning smell, unsure the origin but still.

Just to confirm, my starter button will hook to either side of the relay, then read the voltage across the relay with the button pressed

they were moving to start with, I just couldn’t initially figure out how to get it into a higher gear as there is no clutch lever on the bars

I do in fact know the engine is not seized, I’ve got the pistons and valves moving if I put it in a high gear and spin the back wheel

Is that just measure across the relay or is there a different spot I should be measuring the 12 volts to the starter