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My K4 750 had one in its original caliper too. I assume it was done to push the piston out at some point.

The solid state update (w the fins) replaces the regulator and the rectifier. I swapped mine out when I replaced the main harness. It all worked fine but why bother w outdated electrical bits when modern electronics are more stable/reliable and cheap. Also stepped up to an AGM battery.

Soapy water is just to slide the velocity stacks onto the carbs. Grease would be fine to keep the box seal in place while assembling. Suction isn't strong enough to get grease from the box seal, thru the filter, and into the carbs. You could just use a thin wipe of silicone adhesive on the...

Yup. My K4 has DID stamping on both.

I have a rotomolded kayak that has some oil canning along the hull bottom. It's softer plastic than our air boxes and took absolutely every minute of forever to soften enough to flatten sorta barely back out. Boiling water is another method I've used on kayaks. You could try submerging the...

Soapy water for sure.

I used a heat gun on low to pop out the bottom on my K4 box it deformed from being tightened too tight. It worked pretty good.

I went w the Dunlop K81/TT100s in a 4.10/19 and 4.25/85/18.

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These are the original 341s on my '74 K. Two on the upper pipes and one on the lower inner pipes. My Yamiya no-nos have one hole in about the same spot on each pipe.

I've read that there are small 2mm drain holes in each pipe but never looked for them. Typical rust spots for the 341s are at the header to muffler seams and at the ends on all four pipes. I've read that a bit of 2-stroke oil with every fill up or so will coat the insides of the pipes and help...

In

I tighten till my weight won't rotate the bars. Usually stand on the pegs and just try to move them around. Once there, I'm not worried they'll move on me while riding.

They're BA9S bulbs. You can even get LEDs w the same BA9 base these days for a buck or two.That said, LEDs won't work in the indicator positions for turn, oil, or neutral without resistors and whatnot.

Fwiw, when I put a battery on my K4 w the same harness (#24-4001 - from 4into1 and VintageCB750), the extra Br, Br/W, and Bk were all hot, the unidentified Br/Bk was dead, and I had everything but power to the headlight. I ended up jumping the loose Br/W to Br/Bk and everything worked after...

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Hey all. New member but I picked up my Freedom Green K4 about 26 yrs ago or so. So, in an effort to not bore everyone, I'll just bullet the major details over it's life w me. • 1997: Bought it from an old-timer who had recently ridden from just west of St. Louis, MO to somewhere in Alaska and...

"77/78 Forks are longer with simple dust-caps instead of gaiters." The 77-78 forks are actually the same overall length but the lowers are taller by 1" and the tubes are hard chromed. I've got K7 legs in K4 trees w K4 ear tins and dust boots, a K2-6 fender, '75 F1 wheel, and K4 dual brake...

Sounds like you got it figured out but I figured I'd add my two cents for others. I've got the superbike style bars on my K4 w/a CycleX/Barnett cable. It would drag w the front turned either direction. Keeping the return cable minimally slack, I loosened the main cable just a hair at the carb...

You think it might be the wrong one? I got mine from 4into1 as well. The extras I have are a Br, Br/W, Bk, and one I can't find on any diagram I've seen that's a Br/Bk. I don't have a battery on it yet. Prob this weekend.

Do you have any extra brown or black wires in the bucket w that new harness? I'm currently digging into a similar issue on my K4 w new harness and have read that those extras are for UK not US bikes and they need to be jumped somehow to get the black hot, but I haven't found any explanation of...