Recent content by jbird7262

Awesome idea Travis, early motorcycle engines are classic "motoart" I'M IN !! :yikes:

While your at it make sure you grab the rear master cylinder, master cyl. mounting bracket, brake switch, caliper mount, torque link and hardware. The frame should still have any mounts still on the frame. Remember to get all the related hardware from the donor bike. A good manual will show...

Wanting to put a set of 1977 CB750 auto wheels on to a 1975 CB750, I like the fact that they are aluminum rims and will polish up to match the hubs and cases, I'm getting the axles and spacers as well, direct swap ??

Wanting to put a set of 1977 CB750 auto wheels on to a 1975 CB750, I like the fact that they are aluminum rims and will polish up to match the hubs and cases, I'm getting the axles and spacers as well, direct swap ??:confused:

Yep, they are duplicates of whats on my 75', only difference is the float design.

I have a 75' CB750 and was looking to get another set of carbs. guestion is will the brass float designs replace the platic float design? Looking to just swap out the whole bank after a rebuild. Are the intake/exit openings different? from the early model years, say 71'-75'. Looks like...

This set of carbs has not been run with fuel since at least '86, they are nasty and the pins are frozen, pb blaster soaking over a hour did nothing, broke 3 of the carbs bodies so these are now going to be parts, the ones that broke, I tried getting the pins out of the float bracket and the...

Cool, good advise, I did blow some spray lubricant into the tops of the cylinders before I put the old plugs back, once I get the carbs done I will set or replace the points and plugs and see happens.

Alright guys, I'm tearing into a set of 1975 carbs and I need to know the best way to remove the float pins, I broke one leg off tapping out the pin, I know they come out easier one way or the other. I have 8 carbs but I don't want to mangle them up! I'm taking my time but I think I need a...

Hey, I gotta start somewhere, it was either the motor in the bike or the one on the floor:yikes:

those cylinders are dry, I might hand crank it from the lower end to move some oil to the cylinders and see if they come up a bit, I realize they are low, I kicked each around 10-12 times, #1 cylinder was only up to about 70 psi but I shot a bit of spray lube into the cylinder and got it up to...

This bike has not been tagged since 1986 so it has not been run since then as well, thats a mule to kick up to 120psi, with elc. start it probably pumped up easier, it's the same condition as the burgandy 750 that you have. I just wanted to get an idea of the cylinder condition before I go...

Well it's been a while since I messed with my project, finally got my 12mm adapter for the compression tester. since I don't have the throttle cables hooked up I had all four carbs wedged wide open, Had to kick all cylinders, plugs out, #1 117 1/2 psi, #2 117 psi, #3 118 psi and #4 118 psi and...

So you kind of use the old race just like driving in a new axle seal, I could also use a section of brass stock a bit smaller than the neck opening. I know races are hard as shit from replacing them in my Model A. I figure something out, Thanks

I'm looking at getting some steering bearings and found a company : Pyramid Parts that sells a kit consisting of Upper/Lower taper bearings, shells (races), upper/lower seals, grease and a link to fitting instructions. $ 43.50 Whats the best way to remove the old races? I have different slide...