CB750 K5 Restoration

Since I have the cases split and I'm waiting to get my transmission back from CycleX I decided to repaint the cases. Again VHT Universal Aluminum.
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Being MLK day, I have the day off, but the wife is at work. So what does a husband do while his wife is away. Use kitchen appliances on motorcycle parts. Baking cases at 200 degrees for 1 hour.
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If I baked bike parts in my wife's Jenn-Air, her bike or not I would most likely need a new wife.:cussing:
Learned my lesson baking radio control airplane cylinders one night.
 
HaHa... it is a nice oven, came with the house. I ran the Clean to burn out any lingering fumes, it has a nice fan system that vent everything out doors. Given I didn't damage anything I think my wife would have just rolled her eyes at me. If I would have broke it, then there would have been hell to pay.

Every once in a while I look at used ovens on Craigs List for the work shop, thinking I would try my hand at powder coating.

I've seen posts where people clean their cases in the dish washer. I was going to go there, we have a septic system and I don't want any motor oil in it.
 
Despite my lack of updates lately I have been working on the engine rebuild. I did get my newly undercut gears back from CycleX. I've reassembled the main and counter shafts. One thing to note here is that the snap rings on the shafts do have to be put on correctly. It's hard to see but outer edge is sloped and one side has a sharp edge and the other is a bit rounder. They have to be put on so the edge opposite the moving gear is the sharp edge. Without taking care here, there is a possibility that the ring can pop out and cause all sorts of havoc. Of course every thing is cleaned and assembled with assembly lube.

As far as the top end, I picked up a 836 kit pretty cheap on ebay. Plus a new cam chain, gasket kit, and a bigbore mls head gasket from CycleX. Oh yeah, and I used my cb750supply gift certificate for a seal set. I took the jugs to a local shop for the bore. I started on the valves. Disassembling and cleaning. I took a dremel to the intake and exhaust ports, not a full port job, just a little smoothing out of the casting defects. When I got to the valves I found the guides to be in really good shape, but the seats were badly pitted. The bike must have sat for many years with some of the valves open. I tride to give them a good lapping, but they were too far gone.
So today I took my head to the local shop to have them recut the valves. Well they can grind them, but don't have the equipment to cut them. On top of that my jugs were still on the shelf. So I asked who around town could do the work. They suggested a machine shop in Grand Rapids. So I took the jugs and head to that place. The machinists there said my jugs wouldn't fit in his machine. So again asked where to go. They suggest I call the local Honda dealer, who inturn suggest a shop that's closed for the season. Who would have thought finding a machine shop to do the work in west Michigan would be so hard. Fox Motorsports was about a mile away, they sell and service Kawasakis, Yamahas and Moto Guzies. I thought I'd pop in and see what they say. As it turns out a guy in their shop who used to own his own machine shop does side work. He's going to do all the work and for a good price. $65 a hole for the bore and $125 for the valves seats. He'll also inspect and redeck if needed.
So I'm almost ready to button up the lower end.

I found a good youtube series. The channel is called Hackaweek. The guy has a series in progress assembling a 73 cb750. Good stuff.
 
To run the MLS gaskets you do have to have the head and the cylinders decked with the correct finish or you will have leaks!!! What brand of 836 did you get? Some of the very cheap kits can cause a large reduction in compression ratio.
 
Hmmm... haven't heard that before. I was planning on putting a couple coats of copper coat on the gaskets.
As for the 836 kit, it's not a named brand, but there's a huge thread on sohc4 on these cheap kits. Lots of great reviews with many miles.
Like I said, I'm building this bike for my wife, not the track, nothing fancy. I got the 836 kit for way less than the first over kits.
 
MLS GASKETS - If you're wondering if MLS is right for you,
please email us after reading the information below!

MLS stands for Multi-Layer Steel. MLS head gaskets are comprised of three layers of stainless steel. The outer layers are an embossed viton coated stainless steel providing a superior seal with excellent rebound characteristics and are corrosive resistant. MLS head gaskets reduce bore distortion and withstand extreme cylinder pressures.

Cometic Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets go on dry because they are coated with a sealant. Each MLS head gasket is coated with a .001" thick viton rubber that is bonded to the outer stainless steel layers. Adding an additional sealer can hinder the performance of an MLS head gasket.

MLS head gaskets require smooth, flat and true head and deck surfaces to seal. Most of the time with o-ring setups the wire and groove fall where our gasket’s combustion seal is located; therefore, the wire will hold the gasket and not allow proper compression while the receiver grooves allow combustion gases to escape.

A surface finish of 50 RA (roughness average) or finer, is recommended for a proper gasket seal. Anything rougher may conflict with the gasket design.

When using MLS head gaskets always refer to the manufacturer of the fastener to determine accurate torque values


This is from Dynoman but all MLS gaskets are the same. Not sure who makes Cycle X's gaskets but I would bet Cometic as they are the leader in MLS gaskets. At the machine shop specify you are running MLS gaskets and they will know right away what finish to put on the surface.
 
No problem. MLS is by far the best gasket on the market if you do the necessary prep. Its overkill for stockish builds but the best thing for any performance oriented work. Dont let them charge extra for the finish either because they just use a different feed speeds it doesn't take them anymore time to setup.

I also would highly recommend heavy duty cylinder studs if you dont have them already. No point in putting top line gaskets together with limp noodle stock studs...which caused most of the oil seepage problems that people have.
 
Very interesting read.
I will be curious to see how you make out with the off brand 836 kit. I've been kicking the same idea around for my 73 when I finally get sick of kicking past second. It's really my fault for banging it so hard 30 years ago when I was sneaking it out of my Dad's garage.
Gotta get the GS1000 off the lift and running before I tackle that project though.

Keep posting Grepper. I really like what you have been doing. It looks great.
 
Thanks for the info digger.
Yes, I forgot to mention that. I replaced the studs with APE hd studs. Like any rebuild, I'd like to do this only once. I'm nut cutting the frame, and as you know re torqueing can only be done when the engine is out. So I hope to get it right the first time.
 
Well My son and I have dove back into CB750s. I have a spectacular original 74 at the shop in Lowell, stop in sometime. Got 7 Cb750s lined up to build.
 
yep, we stopped on them last summer, couldn't give away a CB750. But they are back selling again. So try try again. Sold that sweet green 4 piper 3 weeks ago, got another 4 piper 15k garage kept beauty almost done. if you remember that super low mileage 74 custom with the drag pipes, we are doing a restore on it as well.

also building a flake orange 73 4 piper
 
Not much to add here,
Last weekend I got a couple of hours in the workshop and I finished assembling the lower end. I soaked primary chains and new cam chain in motor oil for a few days, gave all the bearing surfaces and gears a nice dose of assembly lube and got the case halves sealed together with 3bond. Of course, I followed the torque specs and sequences. I still have yet to put together the sifting mechanism.
Here's a cool Hackaweek video on putting that puzzle together.
 
If the video has helped you good just take what he says with caution...I have seen problems with some of his procedures but that is maybe just me as I am a bit OCD when it comes to my motor builds. Anyway looks like things are coming together and looking good:thumbsup:
 
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Yeah, I'm there with you. He does some weird stuff, like how he put the head on, and all that gasket goop he uses. Plus forgetting to put the drive seal in was pretty silly. He's got a thread on sohc4 and people are commenting, plus the youtube comments. Overall though a good reference.
 
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Every once in a while I look at used ovens on Craigs List for the work shop, thinking I would try my hand at powder coating.

I've seen posts where people clean their cases in the dish washer. I was going to go there, we have a septic system and I don't want any motor oil in it.

Those cases look nice! I picked up a nice used oven on CL a couple of years ago for $40 because it had a burner out. I got it for a powder coating, but still haven't gotten power to it yet. Imagine having a dishwasher for a parts washer in the garage/shop. That would be awesome.
 
Weather seems to be warming up around here, a high of close to 50 today, much better than the lows in the -20s we saw a couple of weeks back. I've been itching to work on this engine. But, it's competition season for my kids Robotics club, lots of meetings in the evenings and every weekend is gobbled up with tournaments, plus there's that work thing I have to do to keep the bills paid....

Lower end is sitting on the bench, covered, ready to be worked on. Last weekend I got the jugs and head back from the machinist. Everything looks good for assembly. So for $380, he bored and honed the sleeves, re-cut the valves, and cleaned up all the mating surfaces. He even re-cut the taper at the bottom of the sleeves. I was pleased to see that he took the extra step to do that. I plan on cleaning the outside of the jugs a bit, paint and cure them before assembly.
 
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