mrtelec
CB750 Enthusiast
When I said to check the brown and green wires I meant to put voltmeter connections 1 on the brown and the other on the green and see if he has 12v there.
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The harness was used, from my exact bike. All the bends in the loom bent at exactly the correct place to connect to my existing. I've cut back all the covering protective plastic and haven't found any nicked or cut wires except for the horn wire. It was cut but in splicing it together the horn worked. All lighting works that should except the taillight, all gages work. All dash lights work, blinkers, brake, high low beam.I have run into that type of issue before with the cars and cheap international parts, sometimes you have to rewire certain legs of circuits due to changes made in error or for other reasons, or other model harnesses adapted to one not intended for it.
Since you have already been there with this issue I should probably leave you two alone to figure it out to avoid further confusion. 3 in an electrical discussion often makes it worse.
Luck to you both...........
Okay, all the fuses work. I put a meter inside the 5 wire connector to the ignition while it was plugged in and used the battery ground . I might add that I have 2 ignitions and I tried both. There's 12 volts to the black and red, when I turn the switch on there's 2V to the 2 browns or the br/white.Ray the harness you replaced it with is fine, it is probably a replacement harness like the one I had on mine, at some point the maker of the harness put in the color stripes to discern which 2 wires went to each of the fuses instead of having 4 brown wires and 2 reds at the fuse box. But they did not have the brown\blue connected like before.
Now that you have the jumper in you will want to check all of your fuses. 1 will probably be blown. If it is the 5 amp put a 7.5 amp fuse in it. If it is the 7.5 put a 10 amp fuse in. That should take care of the issue. Let me know when you get a chance to play with it again. You are near done [emoji6]
I think I'm just gonna run a jumper from a keyed circuit to the taillight. Suggestions?Okay, all the fuses work. I put a meter inside the 5 wire connector to the ignition while it was plugged in and used the battery ground . I might add that I have 2 ignitions and I tried both. There's 12 volts to the black and red, when I turn the switch on there's 2V to the 2 browns or the br/white.
Everything works but the taillight. Parking still works. And obviously there's no power to the brown 4 wire solder split pictured here. Dimmer works, signals, brake and all dash lights.
There's 3 wires at the bucket that don't connect to anything- solid brown, green w red and brown w blue. Just like my schematic says. Grrr
Okay, all the fuses work. I put a meter inside the 5 wire connector to the ignition while it was plugged in and used the battery ground . I might add that I have 2 ignitions and I tried both. There's 12 volts to the black and red, when I turn the switch on there's 2V to the 2 browns or the br/white.Ray the harness you replaced it with is fine, it is probably a replacement harness like the one I had on mine, at some point the maker of the harness put in the color stripes to discern which 2 wires went to each of the fuses instead of having 4 brown wires and 2 reds at the fuse box. But they did not have the brown\blue connected like before.
Now that you have the jumper in you will want to check all of your fuses. 1 will probably be blown. If it is the 5 amp put a 7.5 amp fuse in it. If it is the 7.5 put a 10 amp fuse in. That should take care of the issue. Let me know when you get a chance to play with it again. You are near done [emoji6]
Okay, I hope to get a comment soon. Maybe the 5 wire connector that goes into the ignition is damaged. It looks fine but maybe it was stepped on. I have another connector but I'd obviously need to cut the wires. I have posi-lock wire connectors. Water tight and easy to use. What do you think. The brown to the park lights work but brown to the running doesn't. Brown /white to the gages also don't work....Okay, all the fuses work. I put a meter inside the 5 wire connector to the ignition while it was plugged in and used the battery ground . I might add that I have 2 ignitions and I tried both. There's 12 volts to the black and red, when I turn the switch on there's 2V to the 2 browns or the br/white.
Everything works but the taillight. Parking still works. And obviously there's no power to the brown 4 wire solder split pictured here. Dimmer works, signals, brake and all dash lights.
There's 3 wires at the bucket that don't connect to anything- solid brown, green w red and brown w blue. Just like my schematic says. Grrr
Okay, I hope to get a comment soon. Maybe the 5 wire connector that goes into the ignition is damaged. It looks fine but maybe it was stepped on. I have another connector but I'd obviously need to cut the wires. I have posi-lock wire connectors. Water tight and easy to use. What do you think. The brown to the park lights work but brown to the running doesn't. Brown /white to the gages also don't work....
Ya, I've thrown in the towel. Found someone on Craigslist that's says they know old Hondas well. Gonna come by on Friday. I'll let you know.I would not do that as the jumper that you put from the black to the brown blue has already made the switched connection. which has power to your fuse in the tailight circuit.
I sent them a pic of the bike w the tank off and they replied that they don't work on disassembled bikes. I said I'd put the tank back on and start it for them but it was easier to access the wires with the tank off and they said they don't work on disassembled bikes.Ya, I've thrown in the towel. Found someone on Craigslist that's says they know old Hondas well. Gonna come by on Friday. I'll let you know.
Thanks. That helps a lot. I'll look elsewhere. I can almost see the wiring schematic when I close my eyes. All the fuses are powered.Switch has 3 positions, off, on running, and park. On running (ON 1) connects the red to black and the brown to brown/white but the latter connection does NOT have power, it gets supplied elsewhere. Meaning on running the two browns will NOT have power IF considering ignition switch ONLY. See what I mean by exact details killing you? Third position park (ON 2) connects the red to brown and then that brown only will have power, not the brown/white. Black does not either there.
The brown to brown/white gets power elsewhere, the ignition switch in that case only connects the two to pass that power further down the system. It in and of itself does not supply either of the browns with power.