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Battery is toast now, that's for certain, so I guess that's the thing. But I still wonder because even when the battery was new the starter would struggle when hot. Something tells me there's more to it. Did I mention it's even hard to kick start it hot? Sometimes impossible until it's...

Battery is toast now, that's for certain, so I guess that's the thing. But I still wonder because even when the battery was new the starter would struggle when hot. Something tells me there's more to it. Did I mention it's even hard to kick start it hot? Sometimes impossible until it's...

Maybe this one needs resurrecting since I seem to be having a similar issue. Curious to know what the fix turned out to be. In my case the problem starting a hot CB750 has been going on since I bought the bike years ago, I just kick it over or try not to turn it off. means keeping it running...

Anyone know?

Copper it is then, thanks!

Ah, a crush washer never occurred to me. If it had I would have just looked closer at the diagram I used to find that picture and would have seen the washer #18 11mm I did notice though the one shown is a regular steel washer. Is this a mistake or would a regular 11mm washer work ok in a pinch...

I've recently got into doing 3D printing and am experimenting with parts for my cafe build. I'm currently printing some seat spacer parts and next is making a post to put on my custom seat so I can lock it. I left the lock that's attached to the frame but the seat which has the male end is...

It's the dynamo cover or crankcase cover. Has 3 big screws in the face

I've got some leaking from all 3 (I think) screws on the face of the crankcase cover. I noticed the PO seemed to have some silicone around those screws, now I know why. That seems like a bad method, especially as it doesn't work, so I'm wondering what the solution is if anyone has had this...

That's a good idea. Maybe it'll be enough to keep some of the exhaust out of my face. It isn't really that much or that bad but I knew I didn't get that before the conversion and liked it that way. So then I guess if it was feeding back to the air box it was ending up back through combustion...

Made another search attempt, found a diagram I could understand, and got a part name. It is called Tube A, thanks very much. Not terribly descriptive, but led me the right direction. What I find is that it doesn't connect to anything, but in case anyone else is trying to figure this out...

There's a hose from the breather that I think must have previously connected to my air box, that my mechanic seems to have just left in place. The end is resting between two of the pods he installed and when the bike is hot a little exhaust wafts up, which I would prefer didn't. The question is...

I have a 1978 CB750 with the square Magura master cylinder, but the brake light switch is missing. There seem to be a few options, can anyone tell me which one is the correct switch? I think it's this one, after all it says it fits ALL Magura type master cylinders, but...being safe? 5th from...

I have a 15" stock spoked real wheel currently and had the opportunity to get a bare 18" mag to replace it. I asked around a bit and was told it shouldn't be any problem to just swap it out. That means removing the brake and sprocket, etc and any of the guts. Both are drum, btw. Anyone ever...

I know, it doesn't make sense unless there's something going on inside. And I think there must be. I took off the filter and bolt and I think the filings are actually the threads going south. Very bad news, but I worked the bolt slowly back and forth every time I got resistance and it loosened...

What I did was get a big nut that fit over the remains of the bolt head and used JB Weld to fuse them together. That way I was able to back the bolt out and get the filter housing off. It actually might serve to just reuse it as is. It gives me a lot more leverage to have that wide, much...

I'm about ready to lose it on this f-ing oil filter. Who came up with this design, Satan? I remember the hardest part of the engine removal was getting the oil filter bolt out. I thought it was put in there by a neanderthal and was just jammed. I barely got the thing off, practically...

There's one nagging electrical thing having to do with the neutral (idiot) light which is stopping me from filling the oil and firing it up, because I don't know if I need to replace the sensor, which I think means draining the oil. With the key on and everything else lighting up as it should...

charging it didn't seem to change much. With that ignition switch being wired like it is, I'm wondering if I can temporarily bypass it, hotwire it, and see if that shows me anything. Would I just connect the hot lead from the battery to the brown and black wires?

Charging now. For some reason I thought the charge would be enough. Sillly.

yep, it WAS hard to follow. But I've progressed since then, slightly. This bike is almost ready to put the oil in, almost ready to paint the tank, almost ready to etc., etc. I think I have most of the wiring sorted. Of the two wires I was unsure about, the brown doesn't connect to anything...

Wiring. God. I'm a bit lost inside the headlight bucket, and I think it's not that bad but I'm having trouble getting my head around it. I must have lost the photos I took showing how everything was connected so I'm trying to get it back together. It's all, I think, to do with the ignition...

Thanks DD, that makes perfect sense. I'm really surprised how little info there is about this thing online. Annoyingly, I find a few pictures at my office computer that didn't show up on my home computer doing the same search, but almost nothing showing it hooked up properly. BTW, am I...

I can't find anything online showing how this wire connects exactly. The wire comes out of the harness where it goes into the crank case. It's light green with a red or orange stripe, which seems almost right per the schematics (which shows a slightly different color). It worked before I...

The status is this. The engine is closed up and the bastard painted a pretty snappy flat black. I don't know if it'll run, but it's going to look cool sitting there even if it doesn't. So, I have a few stray bolts, that don't seem to fit very well anywhere so I'm going to just buy new for...

Learned a little lesson by studying the pics I took of the engine before the teardown. I looked closely at the pictures and could tell that the mystery bolt was indeed supposed to go where Dirtdigger said it oughtta. I found that it was getting blocked by the gasket goop below the cylinder...

Yup, I think that's probably right. Any idea about either a diagram or maybe a video where someone has really tried to show everything coming apart, piece by piece? It might not help in my case if the actual parts aren't right, but it can't hurt. Thanks

Is there a good diagram anywhere that shows ALL the bolts and nuts and dowels, etc and where they go? The manual shows just about nothing. The mystery bolt seems about an inch too long. I haven't tried torquing it down yet and maybe it'll slide down in there, but so far no go. I decided to...

Figured a few things out. Must have been the Pabst. So I crossed out the ones I worked out, now it's down to the 4 studs and the mystery bolt. I'm not going to mention the 14 washers I have sitting here that were probably supposed to go on the head nuts, but because those nuts were flared it...

Alright, that's done. Everything fixed and torqued. Moving into closing this thing up now, but really wishing I had been there to take this thing apart because I'm not sure where everything else goes. Some are obvious but some I don't know and don't seem right. The attached picture shows...