Search results

https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7677-Automotive-TroubleShooter-Multimeter/dp/B0002LZU7K/ref=sr_1_25?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.INXUiUUCs5X71y4TGt3HVcCQfq5Wt8bW4KpRIbgOQHRH9eJIRE-ksG8CH83M7dnpep0NdRAVOMsj6iDr0FMDZ-E5fCcs57h6xKe0VlHm9SKHBXkr14B8tVeMFElJjNgU1zSU-PwquViz2d7I02xZYg59jtfIpxY6tUh5NpOobvgIRGRXIEtU...

Hard to say, no flicker from the oil light. I usually set the idle closer to the specified 1000rpm, just sayin' that with a proper vacuum sync that mine will idle smoothly down to 800rpm. Many people cannot get theirs to idle smoothly below 1200-1500rpm. I don't spend much time at idle either! 😁

1-1/2 turns out on the idle screws is fine. Trying to set the idle mixture screws using the 50 or 100rpm drop method can be maddening since these don't always idle smoothly. Synchronizing the carbs using a set of vacuum gauges on the other hand will go a long way towards smoothing out the idle...

Cool 8-) Carbs look simple enough, but if they are not set up nor assembled properly they are absolutely the demon spawn of satan. I've gotten pretty good at carbs, but I do not like working on them.

Count me in.

I use this method (scroll down): http://www.lowridersbysummers.com/parts/index.htm Of course, I purchased bushings in different lengths and spent less than $10. I like this method since stock appearance is maintained, stock springs are used, and the amount of preload is equal to the length of...

http://www.sohc4.com/cb750/cb750k/

People seem to value the earlier models (69-76) more highly than the later models (77-78) which works for me since I value my K8's quite highly: Plus, I'm having an absolute blast with them! I would steer clear of the "A" (automatic) models since they are sort of freaks of mechanical nature...

I'm in!

The older SOHC/4 Hondas (69-78) typically get a lot of attention wherever I go. Everybody either had one or knew someone that had one (dad, brother, best friend, etc). Been to Bike Week at Daytona many times and my Harley riding buddies get so pi$$ed when people fawn all over my 78' CB750...

What motivated you to put huge 125 mains and then step up to massive 130 mains? Stock mains were 115's. Have you checked your plugs? I'll bet you find them black from carbon being overly rich. Check your compression while you're at it and let us know what you find.

Hard to say, you are making too many changes at once to be able to pin down a single cause. The air fuel screw has the most impact at lower rpm and I don't think it would have much effect at higher rpm. As for syncing the carbs, these motors run very well with a proper carb sync, but I would...

2 and 3 can indeed be timed separately with the Dyna S. https://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/Dynatek/DS1-1_1-2.pdf You can swap the coils from 1/4 and 2/3 by switching the blue/yellow and the spark plug leads to see if the problem follows the coil. If not, then you can focus on the 2/3 trigger.

Count me in!

Agreed. I've used the anaerobic sealer that was specified by the manufacturer to seal the case halves on two stroke outboard engines.

Sounds like you are well on your way to spending in excess of $5,000 on just the engine... Any sort gasket between the case halves would affect crankshaft main bearing clearances. Hondabond, used sparingly, and absolutely NO SILICONE.

That last picture looks like it could very well be leaking between the upper and lower case halves. Splitting the cases gets expensive when you fall down the rabbit hole mentality of "while it's apart" might as well do the following: >New primary chains and tensioner >New primary drive cush...

I was just reacting to your $1500 budget for the engine. If you split the cases you can quickly exceed $1500. I don't know if I've ever seen a CB750 leaking between the seams in the upper and lower case, typically the leaks are at the gaskets or seals which can all be replaced without splitting...

How many miles on it? Does it currently run? A rebuilt head will cost you $1000 to $1500 (or more) depending on what you have done. I just had a cylinder head "stage two" done for $1500 and that was with friends and family discount. Align honing the cases for the crankshaft is overkill unless...

$1.38 is too expensive? The same bulbs were used in 70's and 80's Honda cars, Honda part #34902-259-000: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~bulb~dash~34902-259-000.html

I would remove the wheel, drill the head off, and remove the caliper. This should leave a "stem" of the bolt where it passes through the fork lower that should be enough to get purchase with vise grips.

You might want to test fit first. IIRC I tried eight of those and the #2 #3 intake tappet covers hit the frame tubes. Almost impossible to see these two anyway.

Yes, this is a common "upgrade" due to the larger cutout in the earlier valve stem for the valve cotter as well as a wider angle where the earlier valve cotter seats in the valve spring retainer. Some of the 77/78 K and especially F models have failed when the valve cotter actually pulled...

Time for me to win!

If you are indeed using PD carbs then I'm not sure the 70-76 insulators will work either since I believe the later PD carbs (77/78) have a larger outlet than the earlier round tops. Pretty sure you need the 77/78 insulators to use the PD carbs but I would want to confirm before committing to...

I have fun with my 78' K model. 836cc flat top pistons with a mild CX-1 cam, 79' CB750 swingarm (about 1-1/2" longer), 16/54/530 sprockets, and spacers in the bottom of the forks to drop the front about an inch and a half puts me in the high 12's/low 13's right at 100mph.

The part numbers seem to be for the earlier 69-70 CB750. Later year 1970 through 1976 CB750 show a different part number and they would have used round top carbs. The later PD (aka "keyhole") CB750 carbs use different boots as well. I'm pretty sure the later (mainly 77/78) CB750 PD carbs had a...

Year? Displacement? Model?

Is it my turn yet?

Biker Bob is right. The stator coil has three yellow wires. The other two wires are from the field coil. There are two separate coils that comprise the charging system. All four stators you sent back were correct.