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Thank you.

Dunno... It may not amount to a hill of beans how the spring is mounted, and as you can see, I still have not been able to pull myself away from work to find out. I'll find out soon.

I'm thinking it absolutely would. I hear you, though. The spring compresses, and at a certain point it acts similarly, regardless it's position, but one has to take into consideration momentum, inertia, front end-dive, and whether mounting the spring upside down will negatively impact the...

Yep; that makes perfect sense. By compressing the springs a little, you pre-load them just a hair, and you also create a slightly firmer unsprung feel.

Precisely why I've made the switch to Progressive springs. The stock front end felt as though it would go out beneath me due to the terrific dive I experienced.

I use 15W Bel-Ray in my daily rider, and it's done a fine job. With these new, firmer springs though, I don't want to start out with 15W, for fear of making the suspension too tight. Thanks for your input.

Of course you're right... Just thought this might be a common switch over, and I'd get a quick answer. Nevertheless, thanks for the info. Judging by the pictures in the link you provided, it would appear that the washers go in, then the nylon spacers, and then the springs--tight wound side...

The .02 DID free up spinning just a hair, but not enough to make the wheel spin freely. The rotor is in great shape, and has a .004" runout by my guage, so is not suspect. You may well be right about it just being the groove, and I will report back once parts come in. Though as you say, we may...

I just completed our little experiment, and the brake pad only sucked in .002". With that information, and the information you've provided, I have to say the brake piston/caliper assembly is suspect, as that's less than a sheet of paper's width. I have just ordered a new Stainless Steel piston...

I am in the process of doing a complete head-to-toe tune up of a good mate's Bitza CB750 (let's just call it a 1977K model), and he's been very good about ordering the parts I request, as I need them. After getting the bike running again, and having a chance to give it a good shakedown run, I...

What did you end up using? I am about to use what the book recommends: Automatic transmission fluid, rated at 10W. I'm going to use synthetic Dex/Merc, because that's what I have, but I'm open to better suggestions.

Again, I cannot thank you enough for all the helpful advice you're providing. When you mention loosening the bleeder screw, is that all I should do, or should I pull in on the brake lever, and then re-seal the bleeder, or simply crack it open and see if it retracts? I fully bled the master...

That's good info. That may well be the issue, then. I thought of getting one of those SS pistons from Ebay for 60 bucks or so, as well as new seals. I'll probably do a rebuild, and perhaps if it won't behave right afterwards, I'll bite the bullet and spring for a new master cylinder assembly...

<<Removing the small nylon ring that usually sits behind the brake pad has helped slightly>> Is this a standard practice, and are there any downsides to doing this? I am experiencing binding, and the wheel will barely spin on its own. I am in the beginning stages of troubleshooting, and will...

Very nice. I'm working on a Bitza 1976-78 K model that's cafe'd, and was wondering if you're using the stock front master cylinder or an aftermarket one. Also, what air filters are you using on that bike? Thanks-