17" wheel of an automatic? In that case the sprocket cush is wider than all others and that would f*up centering the wheel.
Now yours look almost like mine. Cut that bearing to fit or make a new one.
How long is your rear axle and how much is sticking out on each side?
Just out of curiosity, does that 16" wheel in the back of the picture fit and line up?
Easy way to determine wether your 18" wheel is laced off set.
I neither fit, and both are of center, I'd say your frame has taken a blow and needs some work.
Hey man. Thanks for the kind words.
There should be room for about an inch of spacers on the rear axle with the wheel on it and still center that wheel up.
What year wheel are you using? You got any pictures of the rear of it?
What caps do you mean? I'd need a picture there to to help you out.
You got o-rings in the passages between the carbs as well as "above" your main jet seat jet (not sure of the correct term here) and above the a/f screw if I'm not mistaken. DD will correct me if need be. So yeah, to dip you need a full disassemble.
I had mine ultrasonic washed. No need to...
Mounted another front end only to find out I had a wideglide hub in a narrowglide front end. Oh well - do over and do it right. I'll be running it through inspection next week, then it's back on the 6 over tubes and with a new set of handlebars.
I use to "hug" the engine from the front, cramming the carbs in place. But I'm kinda different like that. And I ride a chopper, so I have more room to get in between the front wheel and the exhausts.
Maintaining a polished look is easier if you use the right compounds while polishing it the first time. The finer the compound you use last is the less maintenance you be needing later on. Then if you put some type of sealer/glaze on, it lasts even longer. Just make sure you use something that...
Your needle position wont affect the idle. I'm not sure as of how much effect changing from #40 to #42 will do in your carbs. Rule of thumb (from what I've gathered - and on the later carbs 77-78) is that #45 will make it easier to get it to settle at idle without turning the a/f screws out too...
Sounds like air leaks in your rubber manifolds. I had the same issue.
Try spraying starter gas on one intake at the time while running and listen for rev changes.
I'd start there and rulle that out first.
Get back here with the results.
Lol. When sobered up I see where I went out of line Tommycarl. Never ment to disrespect your grandma. Sorry 'bout that.
Now back on topic:
As for a 4-1 you could get a Vance&Hines, Kerker or get in touch with Ken at CycleX. They all have good high performance 4-1 from what I've read.
I've heard 'bout your Swedish roots bro. Never about your grandma steppin' out though. And with Geronimo? Damn. Grams got skills.
So you practicly say I'm related to Geronimo? This is turning out to be the best Friday EVER!!!
Cheers
A dead give away is if there is a "flange" with a mounting hole in it coming down from the middle of the top back bone. In that case it's probably set up for a Harley. But get us some pictures and we'll help out best we can.