Recent content by vanbiker

Thank you very much. I also took your advice with new cylinder stud bolts as well. I actually have the original shop manual, but nowhere did I find the adjustment process outlined. Again, thanks!

It's a 1970 sohc .... I cleaned the tensioner during the rebuild, not sure of the adjustment process. Also, is the hole in the end of the piston housing supposed to be plugged?

I need to replace one of the 12 longer ones, don't want to buy a whole set. Anyone know of a source for these? 1970 CB750 K0 cylinder head stud bolts.

I thought I would replace shifter, kickstart, and tach cable seals as well, any tricks I should know there? Thanks everyone.

Thanks, I will give it a go then.

Can I replace the countershaft seal on my '70 KO without opening the case?

It's frozen, I need to free it up so I can rebuild if possible. It's been soaking in vinegar, no luck so far. Suggestions?

Ah, that seems to have worked, yeah! Thanks for the tip. But now I'm concerned about clogging up the carbs, since my tanks has some rust on the inside. Are there other filters that may work that you know of? Is the screen filter in the petcock sufficient to protect the carbs? Were filters...

I don't think that is it, since being warm is not related, just being low enough on fuel to stop flowing through the regular setting on the petcock. When on reserve, the engine sort of runs-like it is starved for fuel but is getting enough to start.

It seems both lines go to a fuel rail that is between two of the four carbs.

I'm very frustrated with this problem, but I would like to know more about the fuel line arrangement out of the gas tank on my 1970 CB750. I have a very low (60 miles or so) effective range because when my fuel level gets lower the engine stalls because of low fuel flow, I switch to reserve...