Recent content by tenko750

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Have you experience of using a 3 leg puller to remove a rotor ? I assume that you mean to grind the end of the puller centre screw flat ?

Hi and thanks for the reply. Definitely the threads on the rotor. Ironically this rotor is charging fine at the moment. I only tried to remove it to test another rotor that had just been bought as a spare. Have decided to just leave it fitted until it starts playing up. Then of course it would...

First image attached is your original image with the drain screw marked in the red circle. There are also three pages from a Haynes manual that might help. If the fork seals are not leaking I would not try to remove them. They can be a real pain and give you even more problems than you started...

The drain screws normally face outwards away from the wheel ? You should be able to access them when the bike is ready to ride ? If you can be bothered, I would simply removed the fork tubes and empty them completely. That way you know exactly what is inside them both and have a clean start. If...

Hi, Oil amount varies as you state, because you cannot get oil the oil out when just changing the oil. So a full fork strip required more oil as you remove the full amount. I was lucky enough to track down two old stock, but new, front fork legs for my 1979 CB750KZ last year. But when I fitted...

Hi, I am trying to remove the rotor from the generator end of the crankshaft and unfortunately the rotor extractor has stripped the threads from the rotor. Obviously this meant that the rotor was stuck on fast. It was only fitted and torqued correctly about 2 years ago, so it is not a corrosion...