Recent content by Motorhead

Thanks for stepping in. Ring wear would first result in engine burning oil, wouldn't it? There's absolutely no smoke from the exhaust whatsoever.

My bike developed oil leaks and oil "sweat spots" in all sorts of places (mostly drive sprocket seal, vertical camchain tentioner rear bolts, oil pressure switch etc.), all as if there was excessive crankcase pressure. There was also such a "sweat spot" where the right vent tube connects to the...

It's been a while since I've noticed black gooey build-up at the front of the head gasket. Since I know that there are no oil paths under pressure going through inside the head (the oil line is behind the cylinder block/head between no. 2 and 3 carbs), I assumed I was due to rich fuel and bad...

Well, Looks like this specific problem is solved for now. I "backed" the grommet with some Victor Reinz RTV from the cover side (the rounded side of the grommet) in a way that the grommet mating face was a bit above the cover edge. Then I let it dry completely before tightening the cover. So...

Yep, my grommet is pretty much in the state of the one in the picture. Let's consider the problem narrowed down to the grommet being compressed over time and now not providing the same tension of seal against the paper gasket/engine case mating surface. It didn't look as if the oil was...

It was bone dry when I applied Hondabond 4 to it and then let it sit for 24 hours before starting the engine. It supposed to be oil resistant once it's cured, isn't it? Maybe Victor Reinz Reizosil could be better for this? Or the blue polyurethane compound from the same maker? With, or instead...

sorry, accidential self-reply.

I'm pretty desperate at this point. There's a little rubber insert to pass the pickups' wires through. This grommet forms a line with the cover's mating surface, against the engine case mating surface. (It's not the three-bolt "points" cover) So the cover's paper gasket always leaks from...

Meaning, I will also need a different front axle, and the calipers might need to be re-centered?

Lately, the rust spots on my fork tubes have started spreading, it looks like they're up for replacement. What I have on the bike right now a complete front end off a 1980 CBX1000A - 35mm forks, with a Telefix fork brace. A few years ago I also have installed Race-Tech springs and...

Thanks amc49, Look here, http://www.dynoman.net/engine/clutch/barnett.html Complete sets from Barnett, with their springs, friction discs, and steel plates albeit only 6 steel plates. They probably assume I keep the OEM double plate. Maybe I should order the sets and ask for 2 extra steel...

Hi all, hope you're all well! After a lot of miles on it, my clutch started slipping under hard acceleration and it looks like friction plates and springs replacement is due. I intend to use OEM friction plates, as I always did. Would you recommend installing stronger clutch springs, like...

Exactly, I have clip-ons. I have a CBX1000A front end.

Thanks amc49. Yes, I did check the slack off the stand with a friend on the bike. The chain wasn't of the endless type (actually, I have never seen an endless replacement chain here), I ordered 108 links including a master link which they rivet on the bike at the shop, so making the job easier...

Hi all, hope you've been all doing well. Today I went to a shop to replace the driving chain (the only service I don't do myself). I have ordered a 108-link chain as per the manual (530, 18/46). After the job was finished, the young mechanic has proudly announced that my chain was too long and...