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Wiring Gurus Wanted!

usmc5811

CB750 Enthusiast
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Altoona, Pa
Having some minor issues with wiring connections that have me (and others) stumped.
1. Oil light stays lit even when wire is disconnected from crankcase oil sensor.
2. Rear light works as brake light and when key is switched to "P", but not as a running light.
All solutions lie behind the headlight...


 
1. Ground side of the oil light wiring is shorted to ground somewhere along its' length, maybe in instrument package.

2. Miswired rear brake light wiring somehow. The brake light is the bright section of the bulb but you say it works in 'P' too, which is the dim section of the bulb. P and the running light are the same, or supposed to be anyway.
 
2. Miswired rear brake light wiring somehow. The brake light is the bright section of the bulb but you say it works in 'P' too, which is the dim section of the bulb. P and the running light are the same, or supposed to be anyway.

I just installed a new ignition switch - could pull the key out with bike still running - is it possible that's where the problem lies?


 
O, YEAAAAAAAAHHHH.....................................................LOL

Maybe not the oil light thing though.
 
You need more knowledge than that, you must know what every pin you have there is for if your harness is not OEM. If I just gave you 5 or 6 wires on a car hanging loose and said tell me ALL the things these each go to would you be able to? What you are saying there. You have not provided enough info to carry on the process.

So far you seem to say the switch is wrong and that opens all kinds of mis-pinout possibilities up. Now YOU have to find out what every single wire is and exactly all the ways that switch connects up when turned on.

I could in about 5 minutes but haven't figured out just yet how to transport my atoms across the 'net just yet. Maybe tomorrow.
 
Ok - so my "put the old one back" was 1/2 right!
Swapped the original electronics (left) for the new (right) in the new key housing - problem solved!
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That can work!

Watch the work, but likely OK since you reused your old bottom. I've had trouble with changing that part, the new plastic is often too flexible, then it begins to migrate out of the metal ignition main lock to cause you problem after problem. I used a worm drive hose clamp on one, problem fixed but it looked like crap.
 
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