The Norda

[ratranger]

So new to this forum, but have been on XS650 and dotheton for years. Recently finished my XS650 tracker and getting parts to start my next build. Plans are a 74 cb750 engine in a slimline featherbed. I've had the frame for years, and picked up the CB a few days ago for $200.

Motor plans are 2nd over pistons and maybe upgraded tensioners and chains from cyclex. I'll leave it mostly stock.

Here's a few pics of my XS build and the start of the norda.

 

[ratranger]

So far the engine is looking decent inside. Cylinders are in spec, but will need to go 1-2 sizes over to get rid of all the staining, no major scratches. Cam and journals all look good. The clutch steels have definitely been hot at some point. Biggest hassle so far has been the mostly stripped screws that hold covers on. Thankfully the impact driver managed to work on them. Soon I'll get the cases split and start cleaning everything.

 

[ratranger]

Cases split, next step is to clean them in the parts washer, then vapor blast.

 

[ratranger]

That's better, not spotless but clean enough to work with.

 

[ratranger]

I think the motor will be an easy fit once I remove the middle mount tab from the frame.

 

[Dime]

Cool project. Looking good

 

[ratranger]

Cool project. Looking good

Should be fun, but compared to the XS some of the CB parts are spendy. The timing and primary chains, bearings, etc. Pistons aren't too bad depending on brand, the boring will cost more just because there is more work. Luckily the chassis fab and machining I can do, I'm planning on making triples and using cbr600f4i forks.

 

[Dime]

Should be fun, but compared to the XS some of the CB parts are spendy. The timing and primary chains, bearings, etc. Pistons aren't too bad depending on brand, the boring will cost more just because there is more work. Luckily the chassis fab and machining I can do, I'm planning on making triples and using cbr600f4i forks.

I am selling my Harley cause I can't afford the cost of it all. Planning on getting into a 1978 cb750k. Compared to the Harley it is cheap but looking around it still costs to play.

 

[ratranger]

I am selling my Harley cause I can't afford the cost of it all. Planning on getting into a 1978 cb750k. Compared to the Harley it is cheap but looking around it still costs to play.

Cost really depends on what a bike needs and how deep you are going. Running, good condition probably won't cost much. Basketcase things can add up. All bottom end bearings runs about $300, add in pistons at $100-$600, $300 for boring, gaskets, primary and timing chains at about $350, and even without upgrading parts you'll get up over $1k real quick just to do a bottom end and partial top end. Add in valves and cutting the seats and cost jumps even more. Want to relace the wheels with aluminum rims? That's close to another thousand. This build is going to take a while since doing it right requires parts.

 

[ratranger]

Finished the rear axle. It has the internal spacer as part of it so that it will stay in the wheel.

 

[Dime]

Cost really depends on what a bike needs and how deep you are going. Running, good condition probably won't cost much. Basketcase things can add up. All bottom end bearings runs about $300, add in pistons at $100-$600, $300 for boring, gaskets, primary and timing chains at about $350, and even without upgrading parts you'll get up over $1k real quick just to do a bottom end and partial top end. Add in valves and cutting the seats and cost jumps even more. Want to relace the wheels with aluminum rims? That's close to another thousand. This build is going to take a while since doing it right requires parts.

Slow go is not a bad way to do it. I am tight on money so this is the only way I build.

 

[ratranger]

Slow go is not a bad way to do it. I am tight on money so this is the only way I build.

Yep, and I don't use credit to get parts faster. Until I can pay cash for a part, it has to wait. Really makes you think twice before getting an expensive extra.

 

[kirky]

please don't forget to brace the headstock, i have a tuned pre unit beezer engine in my slimline and have a head steady in bushes plus a brace to the headstock, you probably know about this already. i have moved the original frame ear and welded an ear on in the opposite way and fastened a 6mm thick piece of flat from headstock to new ear,

 

[ratranger]

please don't forget to brace the headstock, i have a tuned pre unit beezer engine in my slimline and have a head steady in bushes plus a brace to the headstock, you probably know about this already. i have moved the original frame ear and welded an ear on in the opposite way and fastened a 6mm thick piece of flat from headstock to new ear,

I've read about the importance of bracing the headstock. I've seen a few different methods, and I'll decide which way to go once the motor is mounted.

 

[ratranger]

Hub is on the axle with custom right side spacer. And front sprocket has been narrowed for 520 chain. I'm not worried about cutting through the case hardening on the sprocket, it is still extremely hard. Machines harder than heat treated 17-4 at 52 rockwell c.

 

[ratranger]

Engine roughly in place. I made spacers to take up the cylinder height so that I could have the head on while keeping weight down. Output shaft is even with the swingarm pivot vertically, and roughly where a stock norton or triumph pre unit would be. Side to side isn't set yet, waiting on a rear sprocket and swingarm pivot.

I will have to go to a spin on filter adapter, stock housing just won't fit.

 

[ratranger]

Engine location is set, so next is fabricating mounts.

 

[Loki]

Take care with the chain line or the chain will rub on the swing arm pivot tube.

Loki

 

[kirky]

looking good it reminds me of starting my norbsa build 5 years ago, lining up the engine and box to back sprocket and welding all new engine mounts on, as the build progressed it gave me some headaches but now it's nearly finished, the biggest problem was getting the centre stand spring in a good position , now in hindsight i should have used a different stand to the norton one.

 

[ratranger]

Take care with the chain line or the chain will rub on the swing arm pivot tube.

Loki

I don't think it'll be a concern unless I go significantly smaller on the sprockets. The swingarm is sitting where the shocks would be fully extended, and it'll only have a few inches of travel.