Well people come to this forum to ask questions, others help answer them. If you cant reply to the questions nicely, then don´t bother commenting at all.
Before taking everything apart for a complete overhaul I want to take a spin on it ... so now I do not feel any free play on the real wheel or the swing arm, I need to check properly the chain but adjusters are set at equal distance.
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PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
What size is the rear tire one the Honda? If not an 18" wheel then it has been laced wrong & is off center. I use an old swing arm when I lace a new rim to an old hub. You may be able to fix it by re-doing the spokes (assuming these are spoke wheels). OBTW, the adjusters for chain won't change the position of the top of the tire in relation to the frame.
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
One more thought on the CB750, there are different size spacers for the sprocket hub, inside & out. Make sure you have the correct ones for your year. As well as the one outside the brake plate.
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
I do remember there was an issue with original comstar wheels. Steel spoke plates & aluminum rim band didn't work well together. They had a bunch loosen up. Newer ones are all aluminum. That shouldn't affect spacing though. I'm still thinking that the axle spacers are in the wrong spots.
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
I looked @ your pics again & I think I can see witness marks from the seal on the spacer on the right (brake side), which means that's the one that goes in the sprocket carrier on the left. It should be shorter the the one that is used outside the brake plate.
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
Don't forget the spacer inside the sprocket carrier as well. The bearing will fail if you forget it.
Commander_Chaos
CB750 Enthusiast
The wheel doesn't have to be centered in the swingarm, it has to be centered with the frame, and those are'nt always the same. Unless the bike has crashed hard tge swingarm us probably okay.
The most important thing is that the front wheel us in line with the back wheel. With the bike standing up straight and the bars pointed dead ahead, stretch two tight strings so that they're parallel with the rear tire. Since the back wheel is wider, there will be a space between the front tire and the string. That space should be the same on both sides. If it's not, adjust the alignment of the rear wheel and try again.
An aside: When I was a kid I wadded up a GS550 and ruined the frame. I got a new (used) frame and forks and rebuilt the bike. I soon discovered that the swingarm was bent. I could barely get through a right turn without losing the back end. thtough a left turn it might as well have been glued to the road.
The most important thing is that the front wheel us in line with the back wheel. With the bike standing up straight and the bars pointed dead ahead, stretch two tight strings so that they're parallel with the rear tire. Since the back wheel is wider, there will be a space between the front tire and the string. That space should be the same on both sides. If it's not, adjust the alignment of the rear wheel and try again.
An aside: When I was a kid I wadded up a GS550 and ruined the frame. I got a new (used) frame and forks and rebuilt the bike. I soon discovered that the swingarm was bent. I could barely get through a right turn without losing the back end. thtough a left turn it might as well have been glued to the road.
I have checked the alignment front/back and it is ok. I tend to point out one of my shock which is faulty and make the bike look bent when on the center stand. I will have anyway to take out the back wheel - tyre is shoot, so I would have a closer look at the assembly there ..
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
Not to be a pest, but can you explain how you are checking the alignment of the wheels? I suggest with the bike on the center stand, taking a very straight 8-foot 2x4 (or suitable straight edge) & holding it next to the back wheel, a few inches up & see if the space on each side of the front tire to the board is equal. Check on both sides of the back tire. Since the front tire is thinner than the back tire, there should be an air gap between the board & the front tire, & it should be equal on both sides, if the back tire is centered & aligned for the sprockets. You may have to accommodate the center stand with the board though, spacing or such. This job is easier in a bike lift that hold the front tire. No need for the center stand, it can be raised up. You just need a straight line across the back tire forward past the front tire to check the alignment out.
2 straight bar each side of the rear wheel, I make sure there are at equal distance at the front and at the rear of the rear wheel. Then I check the distance from each bar to the front wheel. Shall be equal.
The bike is not on neither the side nor the centre stand. I keep it straight using a chock on the front wheel exactly as you said
The bike is not on neither the side nor the centre stand. I keep it straight using a chock on the front wheel exactly as you said
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
Not sure what you mean. Did you find the bike is straight or isn't it? Is rear wheel centered in the frame or not?
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
If I interpret what you wrote, I think you are saying you have the bike in a bike lift to do this check. I don't understand what your results were.
PWBII
CB750 Enthusiast
I have a number of the SOHC CB750-4s & I use the same shocks on them. Yours are around 75mm longer than the stock SOHC shocks. I have not heard of any place to get them rebuilt. You should be able to find some on ebay @ a good price to replace the bad right one, if you want to keep the stock shocks. The "F" (SuperSport) model had the same shock with a gas reservoir on the lower end of the shock. You could use these shocks if you like, many of the bikes I built were touring bikes, with fairings & luggage. I used the "f" shocks on them & they work well. Many of my bikes use extended forks as well for higher ground clearance. I just allow a little bit more chain play than the book says with the taller shocks. Lastly you can take the springs off the shocks & replace just the damper if needed, but it's probably cheaper to get a used pair of shocks.