Places to get work done in central PA(bent crank?)

[SoloIIscoob]

Just like the title says.

Anyone know of/recommend any good places to get work on their vintage DOHC in the central (Harrisburg) PA area?


Long story short, after myself hunting down an ignition-based oil leak and having a reputable local shop that works on old school Suzuki and Kawasaki's said that my crank is bent.

Continue reading if you want the long story:

I am running an '81 750C that I bought in 2015. I know nothing about what has been done to it in the past or what is original/not. Since 2015, I have completely torn it down to the bare block/separated block from frame and cleaned everything/powdercoated all silver/chrome to different options of black (textured, smooth, etc) throughout the bike.
Upon rebuilding it, I installed new clutch springs, new front and rear sprocket, new rear shocks/springs, new chain, new oil filter/ring, new valve cover seal, rebuilt carbs, cleaned fuel tank, new battery, new tires, rebuilt front shock, adjusted valves, new carb boots -engine and intake sides-, new bulbs for gauges, new air filter [tore down and cleaned out the factory airbox which was filled with debris-then wrapped the airbox in leftover gold-foil heat wrap I had] along with the optical ignition system and charging systems from cyclex http://www.cyclexchange.net/DOHC PARTS pAGE.htm
Which comes with a new coilpack, spark plugs, plug wires, optical ignition system, new stator/rotor for the charging system. I did all of this myself and everything went smoothly and I was getting a lot of miles on the bike commuting to work, etc. However, it would always slowly leak out of the ignition side cover. I changed the rubber seal 3 times and sealed all the threads for all the bolts on the covers, but it would always leak out from behind the center of the optical plate, down the power wire and out the cover onto my exhaust. After replacing the rubber seal a bunch of times, a reputable suzuki/kawi dealer in my area (who works on vintage Suzi/Kawis) looked at it and said my crank was bent, which is why the rubber seal would not completely seal, because the shaft that connects the ignition to the crank was wobbling/out of round [he showed me this with a dial indicator up to it and it {the shaft that extends off the crank for the ignition} was definitely walking around while rotating].

I called a friend of mine in Iowa who does nothing but work on vintage bikes and he said he has been working on vintage DOHC/sOHC for a LONG time and has never once seen a bent crank in a bike/let alone a bent crank in a bike that was still riding/operating fine like mine was. Which is the weird part, you would think that a bent crank would be rattling the piss out of the bike and vibrate everything to bits, but the bike was smooth, quiet and comfortable for the thousands of miles I rode it in that supposed condition.

When I bought the bike, there was no evidence of it being downed (nothing on handlebars, pegs, engine covers, etc.) though the gas tank does have a slight mine boo boo in it, but nothing else shows that this bike would have been down to bend the crank. Obviously, it could be a replacement engine that came out of a bike that been wrecked, so who knows?

Anyway, I just need another set of professional/experienced eyes to check this thing out and would greatly appreciate any advice/support.

Cheers!

Pics of the plate installed and the oil seeping out from behind the center of the optical plate

 

[dirtdigger]

I would bet that your issue more then likely lies in the part of the ignition that bolts to the crank rather then the crank itself. Either it was overtightened or tightened wrong and bent to induce runout or the part itself was machined wrong, or possibly debri between the crank and the ignition part? Only sure way is to take the ignition off and get down to the crank then put dial indicator on the crank and see if it has runout, if the crank runs true then you know there is an issue with the ignition.

 

[amc49]

X2 and bigtime. It appears you are actually rubbing the sensor with the wheel in two separate places and a big no-no with optical, the residue dust then coats the sensor eye and problems.

If you care to pull ignition apart we can see how the seal works but if the bolt on stacked post on end of crank is not sitting dead square in crank end then the post will wobble to make seal leak and one reason why I don't like that ignition as well as the super small slits which demand perfection in the optics. A million slots when you only need two just add more trouble. I used to race optical ignitions in cars and they are super b-tchy once they get dust on the sensor. The OEM mag impulse does not have that issue at all. Not only can the post be wobbling; by the sensor strike marks the flat plate of the wheel itself has pulled out of dead flat due to center bolt being too tight, look how the strikes oppose each other.

I'd bet there's nothing wrong with the crank whatsoever but like said you have to strip all the way down to it to put a dial on crank end itself to tell.