Paintwork and the engine were done , the build is done , now the riding starts

[hinksy]

Getting slowly used to the gearshift , although it will still make some noise between first and second , most of the rest are quiet . The false neutral between third and fourth raised it`s head again , and got stuck . Went to change up and hit neutral , so went up again and hit neutral , went up again and hit neutral again so I thought third times a charm and it shifted to fourth . Possibly the shift mech behind the lever is out of wack , or a shift fork or dog aint good . There was just no engagement and all I could feel was the return spring pressure , I think it may have gone back to third if I tried , so I`ll do that next time , Oh the joy ! But will just keep an eye out and get used to it . I used to laugh when I read posts about how stiff the throttle return spring was and how sore people were getting . Never noticed it when I was 19 and on my brand new F2 in the 70`s . But now , I am afraid to say yes , it is . I did a 70 klm ride on tuesday and about 10 klms before I got home , my right hand cramped up something fierce . The bike definately has a high pitched vibration at speed , you can feel it through the bars and you can barely see out of the mirrors . Going to try a different style of handlebar to see if it helps as these superbike ones have very little pullback on them so you bear a lot of weight on your wrists . Thanks to six cars and one truck failing to stop , I have had multiple fractures/breaks of my right wrist/forearm and I even did it again by tripping up some steps and crashing head first into the verandah post . Just managed to get my arm up to save myself , but I was falling that fast I hit it between the post and my upper chest and dislocated it . Not complaining though and some pain wont be stopping me from riding , may try one of those wrist supports you see advertised . The vibe could be the front wheel and although the tyre is running true I cannot tell if the rim is buckled . The buzz sort of makes it hard to see the rim , but it looks like there is a very slight wobble although the tyre is tracking true . I am impressed by the power this bike has , you can just roll the throttle in top gear and it just accelerates . I put 16/48 sprockets with a 530 chain on it and going 80 kph to 100 kph with a twist of the wrist seems like close to a second , not bad for something so heavy . Mind you most of the older K series have 17 or 18 fronts don`t they ? And I have no idea what rear . I know I used to have 19/40 on my 1200 lav with a 530 chain , So maybe it could do with another tooth or so , but I dont plan on many long rides , just fun stuff

 

[hinksy]

Thought I would change the bars as they are sort of forward and straight , which puts a lot of pressure on my wrist using the throttle . I had superbike bars and have swapped them for a set of low euro bars after seeing them on someone elses bike . These have a better angle on the grip , so I dont have to use my wrist so much . Its not that I am leaning on them , it is that I am flexing the wrist to apply throttle and now I am twisting/rotating my forearm if you get my drift . Fairly easy swap as the F2 has external wiring , but the powder coating on the bars was too thick . So out with a bit of 400 wet and dry to make them fit my throttle tube

 

[grewth]

I'm having second thoughts about my F2.
I originally only bought the beast because it was local and cheap, and would make a good source of spares for my F1, however, now I'm starting to warm to the idea of having a F2 in my SOHC stable.
There's a lot of rough bits that are going to need a ton of work to make good.
I've collected a mountain of F series bits over the last couple of years, and the only bits I'm really short of (apart from an original exhaust) are the headlamp brackets and the front mudguard, nothing that is really critical.
For the money that they're fetching here in the UK, I'd probably be better off just buying a nice one.
But perversely, I like to build em up from a pile of bits.

 

[hinksy]

I'm having second thoughts about my F2.
I originally only bought the beast because it was local and cheap, and would make a good source of spares for my F1, however, now I'm starting to warm to the idea of having a F2 in my SOHC stable.
There's a lot of rough bits that are going to need a ton of work to make good.
I've collected a mountain of F series bits over the last couple of years, and the only bits I'm really short of (apart from an original exhaust) are the headlamp brackets and the front mudguard, nothing that is really critical.
For the money that they're fetching here in the UK, I'd probably be better off just buying a nice one.
But perversely, I like to build em up from a pile of bits.

grewth , it sucks that a lot of F1-2,3 parts are not the same , like those headlight brackets and the front guard . I have rust and some minor crash damage in my front guard , gen cover , and points cover , aswell as someone had cut off the original front blinkers . You cannot get another set of headlight brackets , they are as rare as rocking horse stuff and dont get me started on the front guard . 2 yrs only , F2-3 only ! I bought myself some K7-8 headlight brackets but they dont fit the F2 , so that was a waste of a kidney . If I had the choice , I probably would go the F1 route as the F2-3 have possible valve troubles if not dealt with . I had to fully replace all my guides , valves and seals on this bike $$$$$$$$ . The peediddie carbs were a bitch to get the jetting right with just the change of pipe and 836 wiseco kit . The F1`s carbs dont have that massive return spring so your wrist doesnt suffer and being able to pop a clip to drop the fuel bowl seems good to me . After reading so much about people saying the brakes are not the best , I was contemplating upgrading to later model F series twin piston jobbies . But I have got to say just put on braided lines , mine work well and have no problem stopping . Also I do like the colour options black/blue/burgandy as opposed to red/yellow . I do prefer spokes also , so it is a pity honda went with these mags . In the mid 70`s I had a 400/4 supersport and a friends brother let me ride his F1 . Well I traded the 400/4 pretty quick on a nice brand new F2 and proceeded to have nothing but problems with it and the stealership . Got them to fit flat bars and they left the front brake masters banjo loose ( hence the later paint job ) Apparently it wasnt their fault and refused to fix the wrecked tank`s paint . Then the valve guides failed within 3 mths and although they fixed it under warranty , I was charged for parts and labour . Not long after the cam siezed in journel No.2 . So I wasnt about to pay them again to fix their rubbish work and lo and behold , someone had filled an oil gallery with what looked like blasting media , so it blocked the oil restrictor in the head . Never went to them for work again and over the years learnt to do most things myself . So bit of a love hate thing going on with me , I do love the bike but it isnt easy to get some parts , so that puts a damper on it . I was only hoping to get it going and do some riding , but it got out of hand and now has cost me an arm and a leg , oh and dont forget the kidney I traded for the headlight brackets I cannot use

 

[grewth]

Sorry to hear that those K7 type headlamp brackets can't be modified to fit, as used ones seem to be going quite cheaply here, and considering that the K7 seems to use a combination of F1 bottom yoke with F2 top yoke, I'd have thought that some sort of tastefully bodged solution would be possible.
As for that front mudguard, would the painted plastic item from an early 900F fit maybe ?
The only other solution I can think of is to buy one of the blade type mudguards available for ancient British Iron in various shapes and sizes, fabricate all the rest of the stays and brackets etc, then get it all chromed.
Probably never going to fool a rivet counter but better than selling your soul to buy a new one (assuming you could ever find one)
My Comstar wheels are straight but scruffy, with rusty stainless pressings and gouging in the rims from careless tyre changing in the past.
However they seem to survive quite well, and don't fetch big money.
So better to source a better preserved pair than trying to restore these battered items.
It's going to be a "back burner " project behind my K1 and F1, but I've shelved any plans to sell off surplus F2 bits now.

 

[Old_Crow]

"tastefully bodged solution" I love the way you guys talk on that side of the pond.

 

[hinksy]

Sorry to hear that those K7 type headlamp brackets can't be modified to fit, as used ones seem to be going quite cheaply here, and considering that the K7 seems to use a combination of F1 bottom yoke with F2 top yoke, I'd have thought that some sort of tastefully bodged solution would be possible.
As for that front mudguard, would the painted plastic item from an early 900F fit maybe ?
The only other solution I can think of is to buy one of the blade type mudguards available for ancient British Iron in various shapes and sizes, fabricate all the rest of the stays and brackets etc, then get it all chromed.
Probably never going to fool a rivet counter but better than selling your soul to buy a new one (assuming you could ever find one)
My Comstar wheels are straight but scruffy, with rusty stainless pressings and gouging in the rims from careless tyre changing in the past.
However they seem to survive quite well, and don't fetch big money.
So better to source a better preserved pair than trying to restore these battered items.
It's going to be a "back burner " project behind my K1 and F1, but I've shelved any plans to sell off surplus F2 bits now.

Dont worry I thought about it , but the headlight just wont fit with the horns and front brake divider mounting . Am looking at other stainless/chrome options with the honda mounts for the guard , so may find something one day

 

[grewth]

Thanks for that, I've screenshotted those pics for future reference.
Those F2 brackets are absolutely enormous.
The Errol Flynn of headlamp brackets !
I've got a couple of F1 type headlamp mount frames (400/4 styled), so I might just modify one of those to suit, or maybe fabricate something similar from scratch

 

[Frank Falcon]

Nice looking bike. It always takes twice as long and costs at least twice as much but it's worth it, right?

 

[hinksy]

Well after much more scrutiny , I can say the front wheel is buckled , bugger . Only checked it when I rebuilt the bike , with a mate holding the axles as I spun the wheel , he didnt hold it very tight so it was hard to tell , but it looked ok . This time I jacked up the front and had it fixed so I was able to spin the wheel and could easily tell by eye that she isnt true . Put a call out on the local bookface page for hondas in oz and a guy has one , needs some clean up but is supposed to track true . It has drilled disks too , so that`s a bonus