Thanks for the great site! I just picked up this 1980 CB750F Super Sport this weekend. Definitely seem some things, but it runs well, rides smooth, and has new Bridgestone battleaxe tires on it. Previous owner didn't have it for too long, but did some good with the carbs and boots to get it running well. Now I've got a page long list of items. Not going full restore, just want a reliable rideable machine for fun.
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New project
- Thread starter jwjeep
- Start date
I'll post my list in no particular order
- side covers, both were cracked, broken nubs, etc.
- dents and paint on fenders and tank
- front turn signals - not sure what options are for smaller ones
- new levers
- turn signal switch a bit finicky on Left, might just be that way
- cover the seat, might recontour to be a little lower and more positive locating
- neutral light doesn't work
- oil pressure wire messed up at rubber boot, need to fix our find a replacement
- new grips and bar end mirrors, these round ones only show me my arms currently
- horns, do not exist now, not sure if I care much.
- engine guard obviously tested, thinking about new tubing welded in, or replacing but I'm not paying hundreds for someone else's rust, so not sure what to do.
- clutch safety switch, bike won't start unless it's in neutral. Now that I think about it, how does the neutral light not work, but it starts in neutral? Switch must be ok, and wiring messed up?
- shift peg rubber cracked
- fender speedometer cable loop broken
- Left muffler kinda gross looking, obviously been welded on and ground back near foot peg. Headers look good, mufflers missing baffles so it's loud and runs a touch lean I'm debating just replacing the mufflers if i can find some, or going to a 4-2-1 setup.
- leaking oil behind sprocket cover - the possibly real pain one. Everyuthing behind there is covered in gross old dirty oil. Hard to tell. Drips one or two drops of oil after riding, plus whatever is flung off the chain. Can't tell if it's output shaft seal (real pain repair), shift lever seal, neutral switch, oil pump housing seal, or all the above. Any advise would be appreciated here.
I already replaced the 2 wire flasher can, dash lights for leds, fixed the janky wiring at rear turn signals, and added a battery tender cord.
- side covers, both were cracked, broken nubs, etc.
- dents and paint on fenders and tank
- front turn signals - not sure what options are for smaller ones
- new levers
- turn signal switch a bit finicky on Left, might just be that way
- cover the seat, might recontour to be a little lower and more positive locating
- neutral light doesn't work
- oil pressure wire messed up at rubber boot, need to fix our find a replacement
- new grips and bar end mirrors, these round ones only show me my arms currently
- horns, do not exist now, not sure if I care much.
- engine guard obviously tested, thinking about new tubing welded in, or replacing but I'm not paying hundreds for someone else's rust, so not sure what to do.
- clutch safety switch, bike won't start unless it's in neutral. Now that I think about it, how does the neutral light not work, but it starts in neutral? Switch must be ok, and wiring messed up?
- shift peg rubber cracked
- fender speedometer cable loop broken
- Left muffler kinda gross looking, obviously been welded on and ground back near foot peg. Headers look good, mufflers missing baffles so it's loud and runs a touch lean I'm debating just replacing the mufflers if i can find some, or going to a 4-2-1 setup.
- leaking oil behind sprocket cover - the possibly real pain one. Everyuthing behind there is covered in gross old dirty oil. Hard to tell. Drips one or two drops of oil after riding, plus whatever is flung off the chain. Can't tell if it's output shaft seal (real pain repair), shift lever seal, neutral switch, oil pump housing seal, or all the above. Any advise would be appreciated here.
I already replaced the 2 wire flasher can, dash lights for leds, fixed the janky wiring at rear turn signals, and added a battery tender cord.
There was/is a catch box breather thing under the battery with a tube down to under the swing arm and another that went up near ignition modules. Anyone know what this used to be connected to? It's open ended on top. Found it while installing charge cable and flasher module, nothing else anywhere near it that's breather related.
Here should be a pic of your airbox system, one hose goes down under bike and one go to airbox. The hoses in front of airbox goes to the went on top front of the airbox via a t-junction (Part 2/3/5).
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Thanks, part of a crankcase breather setup then. I'm assuming that a lot of people ditch the back part of that at least.
Is it common for these bikes to leak at the oil pump and/ or neutral switch? I can see it dripping slowly at the shift shaft, but that doesn't really explain all the oil and gunk in there, unless it's just been doing it for so long, and getting flung around by the chain and sprocket.
No, those areas have seals of one sort or another, gasket, o-ring, etc.
I've gotten most of the way through my list, plus added more. Had to rewire the rear indicator lights, PO added aftermarket ones with running lights that didn't exist before and used wago connectors. Also replaced the front indicators with little led ones with running lights that screw to the small wings on the Forks where the original lights mount. Replaced flasher while doing this with new HD unit that's fine with leds.
Got the shift shaft seal replaced, which i gave myself a heart attack doing. Got the seal replaced no problem, then I had no lights or power anywhere, even though they're was battery voltage everywhere I checked. Turns out, doing the seal meant pulling the chain guard inside the cover. There's one huge bolt that goes through all the way from behind the clutch adjustor to the left through the top of the chain guard. What i didn't realize is that the battery ground is attached to this bolt, sandwiched between the frame and case on the right side of the bike. When I pulled the bolt, this came out and I didn't notice.
Re-covered the seat which came out amazingly well for a first shot at doing that.
Adding dual horns, like I added on my victory. Painting the mounting bracket for that now.
Got maier side covers, and attached them with magnets so they're easy to remove.
Fixed the neutral light, switch connection issue, and replaced the clutch switch so that works now as well.
Disassemble and reassembled the turn signal switch, cleaned contacts, so that works properly again.
Grips and bar end mirrors done. Engine guard removed. I'm going to install some frame sliders in front of the cases on the original guard mounting plate.
Last things will be tank dent repair and painting tank and fenders, along with exhaust. Haven't decided which way to go with paint or exhaust. Might just do new mufflers on the original 4 into 2 that are good back to the mufflers themselves. Paint, not decided, maybe dark forest green, maybe dark blue, maybe bedliner...
Anyone know where the front fender came from? It's actually plastic, but fits the wheel perfect so I'll probably keep it.
I know, worthless without pictures. I'll try and get some today after I get the horns on and clean up the garage from my mess.
Got the shift shaft seal replaced, which i gave myself a heart attack doing. Got the seal replaced no problem, then I had no lights or power anywhere, even though they're was battery voltage everywhere I checked. Turns out, doing the seal meant pulling the chain guard inside the cover. There's one huge bolt that goes through all the way from behind the clutch adjustor to the left through the top of the chain guard. What i didn't realize is that the battery ground is attached to this bolt, sandwiched between the frame and case on the right side of the bike. When I pulled the bolt, this came out and I didn't notice.
Re-covered the seat which came out amazingly well for a first shot at doing that.
Adding dual horns, like I added on my victory. Painting the mounting bracket for that now.
Got maier side covers, and attached them with magnets so they're easy to remove.
Fixed the neutral light, switch connection issue, and replaced the clutch switch so that works now as well.
Disassemble and reassembled the turn signal switch, cleaned contacts, so that works properly again.
Grips and bar end mirrors done. Engine guard removed. I'm going to install some frame sliders in front of the cases on the original guard mounting plate.
Last things will be tank dent repair and painting tank and fenders, along with exhaust. Haven't decided which way to go with paint or exhaust. Might just do new mufflers on the original 4 into 2 that are good back to the mufflers themselves. Paint, not decided, maybe dark forest green, maybe dark blue, maybe bedliner...
Anyone know where the front fender came from? It's actually plastic, but fits the wheel perfect so I'll probably keep it.
I know, worthless without pictures. I'll try and get some today after I get the horns on and clean up the garage from my mess.
With two horns you will need a relay that connects the horns directly to the battery. Without a relay you will be blowing fuses and burning the horn switch contacts.
I did wonder about that, but the harness in the light bucket had a dual horn harness already attached factory, so I'm assuming it had a dual setup originally. I guess we'll see. I don't hardly ever use the horn on my bike, but when you want it you want it to get attention.
Attachments
And the fun continues. Fixing something often causes or reveals another issue on these old bikes. Now my starter clutch is fubar. Was planning to just rebuild, but then I found the r6 upgrade, and will likely go that route. Super annoying, but i bought the thing to tinker with, so it's giving me my money's worth I guess.
