New project CB750F1

Brackets adjusted and ready to weld in place. Looks like the attachment for the crescent shaped spring link is just a hook at the frame end, is this correct?

Loki
 
it is on mine , directly above the centrestand mount on the frame
 

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Hey roadrunner , did you put the screws in the sidecovers ? If so , how ? I assume you would cut n drill the bits and use a nylock nut and washer or even a nutsert for better mounting
Hi Loki
I have what I was lead to believe is an original and first year F1 but it's a 1975.
Have had it since 1976.
 
Hey roadrunner , did you put the screws in the sidecovers ? If so , how ? I assume you would cut n drill the bits and use a nylock nut and washer or even a nutsert for better mounting
Hi Loki
Yes, I drilled the covers and used SS button head screws c/w SS washers into well nuts.
Have never loosend off.
 

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Welded the brackets to the frame today, stand seems to swing through its arc without fouling anywhere, next the spring mount, current plan is a piece of flat bar with a bolt welded to form a hook then a locking nut just to stop the spring from jumping off, will see how it goes.

Loki
 
Got the spring mount welded on to the frame today, front brake caliper painted and various sundry items blasted and primed, there were several deep rust pits on the swinging arm so I welded them up and ground it back ready for blasting and priming, still a bit more blasting to get the last of the rust spots off.

Loki
 
Managed to get the garage warm enough to finish the black bits for now although some more will no doubt emerge from my many boxes while my back is turned.
So I made a start cleaning the engine and found a lot of oil down the front of the cylinder barrels, seems to be oozing from the head gasket area so have decided to remove the head and give it some love, after all I don't want to have to take it out of the frame once it's in there.
Putting together a shopping list now for the gaskets, etc. that I'll need and a couple of other bits that are on the list.
Just finished recovering my seat and have to say I'm well pleased with the result, I had hoped to be making a start on reassembly but looks like that will be postponed for a little while.

Loki
 
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I looked and looked and looked for ages to find a moulded F2 seat cover , and couldn`t find one . So I got what I could , a stitched F1 . Then , BAM ! , moulded F2`s everywhere . Sucks , but I`ll get one eventually and swap it
 

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Had good weather Sunday so got the engine outside and gave it a good scrub and pressure wash so it's clean for painting, when I finished I removed the plugs to blow the cylinders out to make sure I hadn't got any water in there, had a bit of a struggle as none of my plug spanners fitted the plugs, eventually got them out with an 18mm deep socket, they were all tight on the threads, a good wire brush and a dose of coppaslip had them going back in a lot better.
So spent today stripping the carbs (thanks Spanner Rash for your great video) complete stripdown and 20 minutes each in the ultrasonic bath had them looking much better!
I'll build them up tomorrow with all new seals and hope they perform well when the time comes.
Any thoughts on the filters inside the float valve, keep them or throw them away? I will be fitting an inline filter after the fuel tap to protect the carbs, if this gets blocked it's easier to fix than the filters in the carbs, one of them was destroyed when I stripped the carbs for cleaning, not by me I might add!

Loki
 
Managed to get the garage warm enough to finish the black bits for now although some more will no doubt emerge from my many boxes while my back is turned.
So I made a start cleaning the engine and found a lot of oil down the front of the cylinder barrels, seems to be oozing from the head gasket area so have decided to remove the head and give it some love, after all I don't want to have to take it out of the frame once it's in there.
Putting together a shopping list now for the gaskets, etc. that I'll need and a couple of other bits that are on the list.
Just finished recovering my seat and have to say I'm well pleased with the result, I had hoped to be making a start on reassembly but looks like that will be postponed for a little while.

Loki
Will gladly swap , my tin shed is uninsulated and we regularly have high 30 degree temps with 80-90 poocent humidity . I put an aircon in and unless you stood directly in front of it , you couldnt feel it
 

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Will gladly swap , my tin shed is uninsulated and we regularly have high 30 degree temps with 80-90 poocent humidity . I put an aircon in and unless you stood directly in front of it , you couldnt feel it
Tin shed in full sun, lovely! My garage loft is unbearable in the summer south facing roof with black slates makes a wonderfull solar collector!

Loki
 
Just started putting my carbs back together and got to checking the float height on the first one, just to be clear this is a 76/77 CB750F1 not the later ones with the accelerator pumps, first one I measured was 25mm from the housing to the top of the float with it just touching the needle valve.
Is this correct as I have found 14/15mm quoted by several people in my searches then more worrying I came across someone who had the floats upside down!
So is my 25mm correct or have I got them upside down, and how do I check? They are the same way up as they were when I stripped them and I did take pictures before I dismantled them to be sure.

Loki
 
You have the round floats which are different to the later carbs , so it would be 26mm
 

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Just bought a set of carbs all gummed up but with a bit of cleaning should be better than mine which are badly corroded in places, suggestions for solvents to disolve fuel varnish? was thinking acetone or celulose thinners?

Loki
 
Been spending a lot of time recently stripping and cleaning carburettors, both sets have plastic covers on the idle mixture screws and I want to remove them so I can complete the cleaning so how do I remove them without breaking them? and having checked the passages are clear how do I reset them to permit the correct amount of adjustment?

Loki
 
Cleaned out the idle jet passages then set the screws at 1 turn out then put the plastic caps back on in the mid point as Honda manual gives 1 turn open +/- 3/8 turn so I should have at least one set of good carbs to go on once the engine top overhaul is finished and the engine is back in the frame.

Loki
 
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