New project CB750F1

It looks like your arm bushes are a two piece design , so they still do the same job . My brakes were toast , every piston was siezed except the front left , it was only partially siezed . I soaked them in CRC/WD for a week and ended up useing air pressure to blow out the pistons . Scared the crap out of me when one piston let go and hit the roof of my shed . Be carefull if you use air or even hydraulic pressure , put something in the caliper so they dont fly off . I would recommend using a japanese kit for the seals . After the fun I have had with mine , it is worth the trouble of sourcing good or original parts . It does suck that now the price of master kits have more than tripled in 2 years , phew ! Mine did have a halogen headlight replacement already from the states . I did have to replace it as we have a front running light and drive on the left in OZ , so the lens was wrong . I got mine from the canadas but you have david silver in your neck of the woods , so he should have a replacement . But you can buy a 7 inch replacement from car parts stores that will fit .
Hi Hinksy, finally worked out how the swinging arm pivots and yes mine is standard and all as it should be.
Seized calipers I fit a grease nipple to the fluid port and pump the pistons out that way with a small trigger grease gun and slowly increase the pressure until they're out, rear caliper is a bit of a performance with the twin cylinders, you have to get one out then refit that one and clamp it so you can get the second one out, even this way they come out with quite a pop!!
Spent a couple of hours today with my spare rear brake caliper with the broken bleed nipple, when researching on line for solutions came across these little beauties https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335331662783 they are a game changer and worked a treat, I even had the right tap in my toolbox so it was just a case of drilling out the broken nipple then drilling 9mm, then tap the M10 x 1 thread and screw it in with sealant and a copper washer for good measure.

Loki
 
New problem with rear brake caliper, I'm missing the following part for my rear brake caliper 43213-371-006 spring pad this secures the pad pins in place in the rear caliper, without this spring there is nothing stopping the pad pins from falling out with obvious bad consequences! these are fitted to F1 and GL1000 so don't really understand how they can be unobtainable but can't find any stock anywhere.

Loki
 
I was the same with mine . Had no pad springs or shims , didnt even have the other stainless things that protect the caliper from rubbing of the pads . Had to look high and low and found one here , one there , bit by bit over two years . Even found out that with a little trimming , you can make a 79 front spring clip fit a 77 . The rear brake looks very much like a brembo knockoff , so maybe have a look at there spring clips https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3650889...BRDKG8&hash=item5500ff06f2:g:ITkAAOxybi9RdgFW
 
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I was the same with mine . Had no pad springs or shims , didnt even have the other stainless things that protect the caliper from rubbing of the pads . Had to look high and low and found one here , one there , bit by bit over two years . Even found out that with a little trimming , you can make a 79 front spring clip fit a 77 . The rear brake looks very much like a brembo knockoff , so maybe have a look at there spring clips
Thanks Hinksy a couple of good tips there.

Loki
 
Turns out you don't really need the pin spring as the cover plate on top has ears to stop the pins falling out so all assembled ready to fit when the time comes. New stainless steel pistons fitted so no more rust!
You can see the bleed nipple insert in place

Loki 31DE01EC-93C3-45BC-B160-1630BB6574B0.jpegDF6E9A3C-8C08-4F33-9C54-D85AB423D2A0.jpeg4D5B60AA-413A-4DE0-9DC3-6C65CA2D7FB6.jpeg
 
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Just come across this YouTube site when reading some other posts on here, check out Hackaweek he covers all you need to know to buid up a CB750 from just the frame to a complete running bike! I haven't watched them all yet but this seems to be a great resource.

Loki
 
loki , there is also an aussie called peter anderson , an englishman spanner rash , and two americans at brick house builds and motorcycle MD . Lotsa knowledge with these guys
 
OK so next hurdle to get over, after much searching and bartering managed to find a replacement centre stand only to find that some muppet has removed the brackets from the frame cross tube!!!
If you don't want the stand just take it off WHY grind off the brackets!
Anyway I've found some flat bar which I can use to make new brackets but getting the position correct will be a bit tricky I fear, I have a friend with an F2 so will go over and get as many measurements as I can so the stand functions correctly, wish I'd found this out before I finished painting the frame
:-(

Loki
 
Started making the brackets for the centre stand, drilled the holes for the stand pivot axle, now waiting for some thick walled steel tube to create the clamp feature.
Have used the dimension plan from the manual to place the pivot point, next I need to know where the stand brackets go on the cross tube, central or offset to one side? Don't want to end up with a wonky stand after all this. Plan is to tightly strap the stand in place in the deployed position to weld on the brackets, the weld is still visible for the crescent shaped spring plate so that part should be fairly straight forward?

Koki
 
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Thought I'd try to get some pictures up of my latest project a 1977 CB750F1, must be one of the last before the F2 came out. I have taken over this stalled project from a friend of mineView attachment 18953View attachment 18954View attachment 18955View attachment 18956 and this is what I found when Istripped the frame and swinging arm of paint, he told me that these parts had been blasted and powder coated maybe 7 or 8 years ago and this is what I found, if indeed they had been powder coated then this is a pretty good argument against this process, very little clean steel under the coating! I've always been a bit dubious about powder coating and this just goes to show it's not what it's cracked up to be.
Today I have blasted the swinging arm which will be epxy primed then high build primer followed by black Smoothrite maybe followed up with a couple of coats of clearcoat.
I've just laced up a stainless rim on to the front wheel, the rear had already been done although I may strip it to tidy up the hub as it's a bit tatty to say the least!
I have new stanchions for the forks so they will be refurbished before going back together with new seals, wheel silver with clearcoat seems to give a good replacement for the OEM finish.
The engine has run and is still free so other than a bit of a tidy up I don't have any plans yet for anything further in that department, just have to see once it's all together and running again.
Then there's the brakes to go through, I've got the rear caliper freed up but the bleed nipple doesn't seal so I have another to go through but it has a sheared bleed nipple so that may be going to a speciallist to get that sorted as these calipers are like rocking horse poo to find and seem to be unique to this model?
A growing pile of chrome bits to be replated and then there's the painting to do, Candy Antares Red, should be interesting, I've not done candy before.
Any way I'll try to keep postinf as I get along.

Loki
 
Thought I'd try to get some pictures up of my latest project a 1977 CB750F1, must be one of the last before the F2 came out. I have taken over this stalled project from a friend of mineView attachment 18953View attachment 18954View attachment 18955View attachment 18956 and this is what I found when Istripped the frame and swinging arm of paint, he told me that these parts had been blasted and powder coated maybe 7 or 8 years ago and this is what I found, if indeed they had been powder coated then this is a pretty good argument against this process, very little clean steel under the coating! I've always been a bit dubious about powder coating and this just goes to show it's not what it's cracked up to be.
Today I have blasted the swinging arm which will be epxy primed then high build primer followed by black Smoothrite maybe followed up with a couple of coats of clearcoat.
I've just laced up a stainless rim on to the front wheel, the rear had already been done although I may strip it to tidy up the hub as it's a bit tatty to say the least!
I have new stanchions for the forks so they will be refurbished before going back together with new seals, wheel silver with clearcoat seems to give a good replacement for the OEM finish.
The engine has run and is still free so other than a bit of a tidy up I don't have any plans yet for anything further in that department, just have to see once it's all together and running again.
Then there's the brakes to go through, I've got the rear caliper freed up but the bleed nipple doesn't seal so I have another to go through but it has a sheared bleed nipple so that may be going to a speciallist to get that sorted as these calipers are like rocking horse poo to find and seem to be unique to this model?
A growing pile of chrome bits to be replated and then there's the painting to do, Candy Antares Red, should be interesting, I've not done candy before.
Any way I'll try to keep postinf as I get along.

Loki
 
Hi Loki
I have what I was lead to believe is an original and first year F1 but it's a 1975.
Have had it since 1976.
A few non original modifications there, F1 came with a single front disc, that exhaust isn't original, guessing the paint has been redone as the tank has lost its stripes and side panels on the F1 were satin black, but I have to agree it's a nice bike in beautiful condition.

Loki
 
A few non original modifications there, F1 came with a single front disc, that exhaust isn't original, guessing the paint has been redone as the tank has lost its stripes and side panels on the F1 were satin black, but I have to agree it's a nice bike in beautiful condition.

Loki
Thanks for the thumbs up.
Yes, I put the second disc up front and had them all drilled by Toad out of Dartmouth back In the 80's.
I almost had to fix a 73 Vette when I just barely got stopped in the pouring rain.
I have never had to worry driving in the rain since.
Have had it to The Tail of the Dragon, Laconia three times, Pennsylvania and many trips in between.
All lights left me while on I 95 so switched to electronics c/w led head light and driving lights.
Blind in my left eye so need ALL the light I can buy.
Original exhaust just way to heavy and drug way to early.
 
Thanks for the thumbs up.
Yes, I put the second disc up front and had them all drilled by Toad out of Dartmouth back In the 80's.
I almost had to fix a 73 Vette when I just barely got stopped in the pouring rain.
I have never had to worry driving in the rain since.
Have had it to The Tail of the Dragon, Laconia three times, Pennsylvania and many trips in between.
All lights left me while on I 95 so switched to electronics c/w led head light and driving lights.
Blind in my left eye so need ALL the light I can buy.
Original exhaust just way to heavy and drug way to early.
How hard is it to add the second disc. I have another disc spare and the fittings are on the fork leg for the second calliper

Loki
 
No real problems with the install it did require a couple shims/washers for trueing up alignment.
I put Russell SS lines on and added a master cylinder for dual calipers to allow for more volume.
 
OK wheel mounted to swing arm and everything is central so the centre stand mounts will be symetrical about the centre of the bottom cross tube, I now have the steel tube to create the clamp for the pivot tube, will put some pictures up once I have things ready to fit.

Loki
 
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