New project CB750F1

Loki

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Thought I'd try to get some pictures up of my latest project a 1977 CB750F1, must be one of the last before the F2 came out. I have taken over this stalled project from a friend of mine CB84D317-3192-4FE3-B63A-5ECFABDB5376.jpegE28A02DF-6538-456C-9375-6FA05338FF81.jpeg894B62A9-6DFB-461C-8097-42C0D4C051A8.jpeg1A5B03AE-9E31-430B-A755-A6812920A612.jpeg and this is what I found when Istripped the frame and swinging arm of paint, he told me that these parts had been blasted and powder coated maybe 7 or 8 years ago and this is what I found, if indeed they had been powder coated then this is a pretty good argument against this process, very little clean steel under the coating! I've always been a bit dubious about powder coating and this just goes to show it's not what it's cracked up to be.
Today I have blasted the swinging arm which will be epxy primed then high build primer followed by black Smoothrite maybe followed up with a couple of coats of clearcoat.
I've just laced up a stainless rim on to the front wheel, the rear had already been done although I may strip it to tidy up the hub as it's a bit tatty to say the least!
I have new stanchions for the forks so they will be refurbished before going back together with new seals, wheel silver with clearcoat seems to give a good replacement for the OEM finish.
The engine has run and is still free so other than a bit of a tidy up I don't have any plans yet for anything further in that department, just have to see once it's all together and running again.
Then there's the brakes to go through, I've got the rear caliper freed up but the bleed nipple doesn't seal so I have another to go through but it has a sheared bleed nipple so that may be going to a speciallist to get that sorted as these calipers are like rocking horse poo to find and seem to be unique to this model?
A growing pile of chrome bits to be replated and then there's the painting to do, Candy Antares Red, should be interesting, I've not done candy before.
Any way I'll try to keep postinf as I get along.

Loki
 
Back from a week away in Lisbon feeling refreshed, frame is now with the blaster should get it back this week so I can get the epoxy primer on to stop it rusting again then get the primer and gloss on, same for the swinging arm and various other small parts ready for reassembly.
While the engine is out I'll give it a good clean ready for paint, believe it should be silver?
The chroming pile is growing will need to keep an eye on prices before committing to chrome or replace, some of the smaller items may be cheaper to replace compared to the labour and materials involved in replating, does that make sense?
I would really like a pair of engine bars but the prices are a bit rich, thick end of £300 for a good pair, mine is a late F1 from early '77, some are listed -'76 or '78 on with mine being in the middle are there any frame differences for '77? Anybody tried the ones from Vietnam?

Loki
 
Got a call from the blasters this morning ready to collect so went straight over and got it before the flash rusting could start, even though it didn't take long there were a few spots starting already when I got there.
Got my hand held blaster out and dealt with the rust spots then on with the 2K epoxy primer until I'm ready to put the top coat on.9FE0FE86-BF44-49DD-8256-4CACBA41C13A.jpeg
 
Been putting my latest purchase to good use, bought an ultrasonic cleaner and done the front and rear brake calipers, carb. float bowls and upper fork yoke, think I might polish it as the paint all came off in the u/s cleaner and it's nice smooth alloy now so shouldn't take much to get it shining.

Loki
 
Back from a week away in Lisbon feeling refreshed, frame is now with the blaster should get it back this week so I can get the epoxy primer on to stop it rusting again then get the primer and gloss on, same for the swinging arm and various other small parts ready for reassembly.
While the engine is out I'll give it a good clean ready for paint, believe it should be silver?
The chroming pile is growing will need to keep an eye on prices before committing to chrome or replace, some of the smaller items may be cheaper to replace compared to the labour and materials involved in replating, does that make sense?
I would really like a pair of engine bars but the prices are a bit rich, thick end of £300 for a good pair, mine is a late F1 from early '77, some are listed -'76 or '78 on with mine being in the middle are there any frame differences for '77? Anybody tried the ones from Vietnam?

Loki
You can see a difference between the F1 and F2 frames , where the passenger pegs mount are different . I am fairly sure the engines are the same externally , so the mounts should be the same . I have noticed the price of the crash bars and have never seen a cheap pair , go figure . Only thing about the cheap knock off`s is I would really check the welds and even the grade of steel . If they were made of licorice then they may fail badly when needed
 

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You can see a difference between the F1 and F2 frames , where the passenger pegs mount are different . I am fairly sure the engines are the same externally , so the mounts should be the same . I have noticed the price of the crash bars and have never seen a cheap pair , go figure . Only thing about the cheap knock off`s is I would really check the welds and even the grade of steel . If they were made of licorice then they may fail badly when needed
Thanks for the pic Hinksy, as you say front of the frame should be the same if the engine mounts are the same, I do like the look of the chrome bars but will have to put them on the nice to have list for now as the spend so far is climbing steadily and it's still all in bits!

Loki
 
Just wondering your saying F1 & I thought 1975 was the CB750F0 First year of the SuperSport, making 1976 the F1 & yours the F2. I have a 1976 right now myself, (bone stock).
 
That's correct except that the F1 carried over into '77 as the F2 came out April I think or thereabouts. Also F2 has the Comstar wheels and different brakes amongst other differences.

Loki
 
The first Comstars were ify. An Aluminum band with steel spoke plates (Silver). Were known to come loose. Second generation, All Aluminum (black) seem to hold up. Of course A lot of dudes went with Lester or Abe mag wheels. I still have a 16" Abe rear for a SS.
 
The first Comstars were ify. An Aluminum band with steel spoke plates (Silver). Were known to come loose. Second generation, All Aluminum (black) seem to hold up. Of course A lot of dudes went with Lester or Abe mag wheels. I still have a 16" Abe rear for a SS.
Didn't know that but as an engineer I never liked the look of a composite wheel rivetted together on a motorbike!, my rear wheel has already been rebuilt with a stainless rim and I'm in the process of doing the same with the front, just waiting for the spokes just now.

Loki
 
Looking at my swinging arm after I'd blasted it and looking at the bushes something doesn't look right, the bushes I've seen have a rim at the end which presumably would be visible when fitted in the swinging arm however the bushes in mine are flush with the end of the pivot tube, however, the swinging arm fits neatly in the frame with the seals in place. I'll take some pictures tomorrow so you can see what I mean.

Loki
 
Thats how mine are , dont know if you can see them in the pic , but they have a rim that mates up with the tube . I have the std type which are nylon I think and they were the only thing I didnt have to replace . I have seen the brass replacements and they also have a lip , maybe the previous owner modified it
 

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Can you see the lip when the bushes are fitted or are they flush with the ends of th pivot tube?
Yes you can see the lip , maybe yours was worn off ? The pic I put up is for an F and you can see the edge that sits against the outside of the swingarm
 
I had a closer look at my swinging arm and the bushes, it seems that the bushes are some kind of plastic material and the inner sleeve is what bears on the inner diameter of the bushes?
Here are photos of mine.F152E6A2-3F9A-4B51-83AE-E17DF2F1E4C0.jpegFA218741-CA70-43E5-A9E5-3BAD9565F9F0.jpeg
So I guess this is correct?

Loki
 
Been spending time today getting a coat of high build primer on the frame then tackled the brake master cylinders front and rear, both the rear ones I had to work with had the pistons seized in the bore but a bit of sideways thinking had them both stripped and in the ultrasonic bath, the front one was free so will strip that one next.
Next I stripped the headlight unit, I have the UK type with a Stanley "sealed beam unit" with a bulb inside! very wierd! anyway the silvering on the reflector is in a bad way so will need a replacement. Wondered what options I have, I'd like to go to a halogen or LED type but the way the light unit is fitted that may not be a straight swap? Any suggestions?

Loki
 
It looks like your arm bushes are a two piece design , so they still do the same job . My brakes were toast , every piston was siezed except the front left , it was only partially siezed . I soaked them in CRC/WD for a week and ended up useing air pressure to blow out the pistons . Scared the crap out of me when one piston let go and hit the roof of my shed . Be carefull if you use air or even hydraulic pressure , put something in the caliper so they dont fly off . I would recommend using a japanese kit for the seals . After the fun I have had with mine , it is worth the trouble of sourcing good or original parts . It does suck that now the price of master kits have more than tripled in 2 years , phew ! Mine did have a halogen headlight replacement already from the states . I did have to replace it as we have a front running light and drive on the left in OZ , so the lens was wrong . I got mine from the canadas but you have david silver in your neck of the woods , so he should have a replacement . But you can buy a 7 inch replacement from car parts stores that will fit .
 

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