Neutral switch not grounding to shift drum

[Butscut]

Hey folks, I've got a problem.
After double checking all my wiring and being 110% it's all correctly connected, I think I have worked out why my neutral switch is not triggering the neutral light.
As I understand it, when the end of the switch connects to the shift drum (when placed in the neutral position) it completes the circuit and the light comes on. However when mine is in neutral, the circuit is not closing (I have confirmed using a multi meter) suggesting that the tip is not connecting to the drum.

I removed the switch and looked inside and it seems the drum does not line up well with the switch. (See photo, drum only visible across half the opening)

Looking for any ideas that could help fix this problem.

Thanks in advance guys

 

[Butscut]

I should also add that removing the brass washer helped a little in that the neutral light quickly flashes on when shifting into and out of neutral but does not stay on when left in neutral. It's as if the contract briefly connects when entering or leaving neutral but isn't closing when in neutral.

 

[SenseAmidMadness]

You may simply have a bad switch, or perhaps the wrong switch.

It's simpler than you think -- the shift drum doesn't act as the ground for the switch. What it does is push the little pin on the end of the switch in towards the body of the switch. The "ground" is the body of the switch being screwed into the transmission casing, and the positive is the little wire terminal that you connect the wire to.

You can confirm whether or not the switch works properly with a multimeter and a pair of alligator clips. Put one on the wire terminal and the other on the switch body and poke the pin that touches the shift drum. Should be a steady zero resistance or near-zero resistance when you push the pin in and hold it.

 

[Butscut]

You may simply have a bad switch, or perhaps the wrong switch.

It's simpler than you think -- the shift drum doesn't act as the ground for the switch. What it does is push the little pin on the end of the switch in towards the body of the switch. The "ground" is the body of the switch being screwed into the transmission casing, and the positive is the little wire terminal that you connect the wire to.

You can confirm whether or not the switch works properly with a multimeter and a pair of alligator clips. Put one on the wire terminal and the other on the switch body and poke the pin that touches the shift drum. Should be a steady zero resistance or near-zero resistance when you push the pin in and hold it.

Well, sometimes the angels of mercy look upon you! After way too much time working on the bike this weekend I took another look at the neutral switch and tried to get the neutral light working. During my troubles I managed to shear off the new neutral switch which made my heart sink. However it was all good after that. Unbelievably none of the switch fell into the engine, and my easy out withdrew the switch thread 1st go! I then reinstalled the old switch and to my surprise the bloody thing is now working. Needless to say, I ain't touching it any more!

Really appreciate the response buddy!

 

[budjuman]

Hey folks, I've got a problem.
After double checking all my wiring and being 110% it's all correctly connected, I think I have worked out why my neutral switch is not triggering the neutral light.
As I understand it, when the end of the switch connects to the shift drum (when placed in the neutral position) it completes the circuit and the light comes on. However when mine is in neutral, the circuit is not closing (I have confirmed using a multi meter) suggesting that the tip is not connecting to the drum.

I removed the switch and looked inside and it seems the drum does not line up well with the switch. (See photo, drum only visible across half the opening)

Looking for any ideas that could help fix this problem.

Thanks in advance guys

The neutral switch also acts as a locating dowel for the shift drum. Does the switch push all the way to the bottom and the little retainer plate sit fairly flat? You should be able to look in the hole and ensure the shift drum slot is centralised