Jumped into the deep end

[Biker Bob]

You might want to remove the spark plugs first, and move the kick start arm by hand to make sure that your engine isn't seized up. Put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. Only put in a couple of ounces. Go really slow. If you feel some resistance, don't try to force the pistons to move. Let the oil free things up.

 

[MikeFlorendo]

You might want to remove the spark plugs first, and move the kick start arm by hand to make sure that your engine isn't seized up. Put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. Only put in a couple of ounces. Go really slow. If you feel some resistance, don't try to force the pistons to move. Let the oil free things up.

It's free. I kicked it before I bought it. There was some oil left in the dry sump that I drained out. Just a tiny bit in the bottom. It feels like it has comprssion but won't know how much until I do the compression check. I'll drain the oil out of the engine and refill the sump.

Thanks!

 

[MikeFlorendo]

Wow , the dark stuff looks like sediment of some sort . Does it crumble ? Oh , that no.3 carb has a different overflow pipe , hope all goes well when you open it up . Partzilla , CMSNL , David Silver Spares are good sources for original parts . Then you have CycleX , 4into1 , Partsnmore , and Z1 Parts for repo parts . Didnt know about the engine number being there it might be a K8 . Mine took me 2 years and I still havent been able to ride it , but it wont be long now . I just have to wait till this rain and these floods stop over here in OZ , then I`ll get her registered on the road so I can ride her

The dark stuff doesn't seem like rust. Could be an old liner. I read if it is I need to get it all out before rust abatement. Any knowledge on this?

Thanks-

 

[Loki]

If the tank has been lined previously try acetone and a couple of handfuls of old screws, nuts, etc. and give it a good shake and see what comes out, your tank looks pretty crusty in your pictures so will need sealing before you can use it. While your swilling the acetone around check for leaks in the tank, vinegar and bicarb is good for getting the rust out then once the rust is gone and the tank is dry get the sealant in there before it rusts again. The sealant should deal with any pinholes you might have uncovered.

Loki

 

[hinksy]

Havent had to do that yet , but there are products to do it and quite a few guys on the youtubes showing you how . Mine was never as bad as yours , it was good when I got it . I then had a respray and the painter left it wet after sanding for 3 weeks . My brakes were toast and I had to get all new pistons and seals , lines and fittings , the bike had sat for 30 years . I would bleed them with new fluid untill it runs clear ( flush ) and see how they go

 

[MikeFlorendo]

If the tank has been lined previously try acetone and a couple of handfuls of old screws, nuts, etc. and give it a good shake and see what comes out, your tank looks pretty crusty in your pictures so will need sealing before you can use it. While your swilling the acetone around check for leaks in the tank, vinegar and bicarb is good for getting the rust out then once the rust is gone and the tank is dry get the sealant in there before it rusts again. The sealant should deal with any pinholes you might have uncovered.

Loki

That's what I read online with the acetone. Ill do that and I bought evaporust. I'll run them through and finish off with vinegar and then baking soda to neutralize it. That will take a bit.

Thanks-

 

[MikeFlorendo]

Havent had to do that yet , but there are products to do it and quite a few guys on the youtubes showing you how . Mine was never as bad as yours , it was good when I got it . I then had a respray and the painter left it wet after sanding for 3 weeks . My brakes were toast and I had to get all new pistons and seals , lines and fittings , the bike had sat for 30 years . I would bleed them with new fluid untill it runs clear ( flush ) and see how they go

Yeah, ill bleed them and run a decent amount through if I don't see leaks. If I see leaks obviously stop and address them.

Thanks-

 

[MikeFlorendo]

You might want to remove the spark plugs first, and move the kick start arm by hand to make sure that your engine isn't seized up. Put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. Only put in a couple of ounces. Go really slow. If you feel some resistance, don't try to force the pistons to move. Let the oil free things up.

I guess i shouldn't have kicked it and instead done what you said. Move it by hand. Hopefully I didn't damage anything. I didn't know. If I did then I guess i will rebuild it.

 

[MikeFlorendo]

Update... took the tapets off and looks really dry but clean. I can spray oil in there but how will i know if oil is getting in there from below?

 

[pickleknuckles]

Update... took the tapets off and looks really dry but clean. I can spray oil in there but how will i know if oil is getting in there from below?

You can run it w the tappet covers off. You'll see oil dribble out and accumulate.

 

[MikeFlorendo]

You can run it w the tappet covers off. You'll see oil dribble out and accumulate.

Perfect! I will spray oil in there to do the compresion check and when I run it if the compression check goes well. I leave it open to see. Thanks,-

 

[dirtdigger]

I would dump a quart of oil in the tappet covers on the intake side to get some oil up there. Get oil in your oil tank and crank it over with the starter with the spark plugs out.

 

[MikeFlorendo]

I would dump a quart of oil in the tappet covers on the intake side to get some oil up there. Get oil in your oil tank and crank it over with the starter with the spark plugs out.

So do the normal 4 quarts. 1 on the tappets maybe some on the cylinders through the spark plug holes and rest in the sump? Which is the intake side? Thanks

 

[dirtdigger]

Maybe just a teaspoon at the most in each cylinder. Even that is too much really, will give false high compression if you put too much oil in the cylinders. quart in the tappets and the rest in the oil tank. Intake side is the side with the carbs...

 

[MikeFlorendo]

Maybe just a teaspoon at the most in each cylinder. Even that is too much really, will give false high compression if you put too much oil in the cylinders. quart in the tappets and the rest in the oil tank. Intake side is the side with the carbs...

Don't want a false reading. Should I not put any oil in the cylinders? Thanks again.

 

[dirtdigger]

Normally you do a dry test and if they are low you add a bit of oil and see if the compression comes up.

 

[MikeFlorendo]

UPDATE: Got power it was a bad fuse and a bad starter relay.

Did compression check.
#1 151
#2 139
#3 133
#3 134
Squirted oil and all reading went higher by atleast 20+.

Started electrolysis on tank.

Oil pan off because the bolt is stripped and waiting on the washer for the oil filter it was missing.

Carbs are off and will start the rebuild soon. Just reading more about it. Anyone have more literature or video links for the carb rebuild?

Fixed burnt wires to the rectifier.

Checked there is spark. Did a valved adjustment and will checking timing next.

Anything else I should be checking?

Thanks!

 

[pickleknuckles]

UPDATE: Got power it was a bad fuse and a bad starter relay.

Did compression check.
#1 151
#2 139
#3 133
#3 134
Squirted oil and all reading went higher by atleast 20+.

Started electrolysis on tank.

Oil pan off because the bolt is stripped and waiting on the washer for the oil filter it was missing.

Carbs are off and will start the rebuild soon. Just reading more about it. Anyone have more literature or video links for the carb rebuild?

Fixed burnt wires to the rectifier.

Checked there is spark. Did a valved adjustment and will checking timing next.

Anything else I should be checking?

Thanks!

I'm not familiar w the later DOHC bikes but that rebuild manual might not be applicable to the carbs on the SOHC bikes.

 

[hinksy]

This guy is good , he has many cleaning and setup vids

Then you have

and

and brickhouse builds have a lot of carb cleaning and resurrection vids , to name just a few . The youtubes can be a big help

 

[pickleknuckles]

This guy is good , he has many cleaning and setup vids

Then you have

and

and brickhouse builds have a lot of carb cleaning and resurrection vids , to name just a few . The youtubes can be a big help

Spanner Rash is awesome! Tons of good info.
Brickhouse is quickly becoming the go-to CB guy. He's local to me and I almost bought him my bike for some work I didn't have the equipment to do, but went w another shop that does work for him and was able to get me in sooner.