Help to determine the wear of the stars

[sergei]

Hello, The chain will be new.
I have two questions. 1 - what do you think is the condition of the leading and trailing stars? 2 - I bought an Afam rear star, but it doesn't have a black riveted plate. What is the purpose of this black plate on the factory star, and is it possible to install the star without this riveted plate? Thank you.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Neither of your sprockets look terribly worn. They would be pointed at the teeth if badly worn. Your sprockets still have nice flat spots on the ends of the teeth. I'd say, not even half worn.

 

[sergei]

Yes, I also compared it with photos of new stars and didn't see any significant wear. Can you tell me what the riveted plate on the factory star is? in the last photo, you can see that the new star has a wider tooth by 1 mm. I don't know if this is a good or bad thing. it fits onto the chain without any gaps . I just got back from a trip. I traveled 3200 km. I'll write more about it later. There wasn't much to do on the road.

 

[Bo82CB]

If you are replacing sprockets, replace chain. Using old chain with new sprockets or vices versa will cause premature wear on new item.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Yes, I also compared it with photos of new stars and didn't see any significant wear. Can you tell me what the riveted plate on the factory star is? in the last photo, you can see that the new star has a wider tooth by 1 mm. I don't know if this is a good or bad thing. it fits onto the chain without any gaps . I just got back from a trip. I traveled 3200 km. I'll write more about it later. There wasn't much to do on the road.

New sprockets don't come with that flange/guard thing. I believe it is to keep a failed or loose chain on a strait track before it does damage. None of my bikes still have that guard. General chain inspection is the key there.

I always start with new sprockets and chain, but I think your sprockets would be fine for many more miles with a good new chain.

 

[Old_Crow]

Both sprockets also look good to me, but I'm just anal enough that I always replace the sprockets when I do a new chain. As a matter of fact, I'm in the process of finding and ordering parts for this myself. Of course, I'm also anal enough to want to stay with the 630 chain and stock tooth counts my bike came with. Narrows the suppliers a bit.

 

[kirky]

Sergei maybe it is to stop the chain if it jumps off the stars.

 

[PWBII]

I'm more concerned with the side wear I see on your front sprocket (right term, not star), it looks like chain is not running true. Chain maybe slightly off track which will wear things out on you. Rear wheel might be cocked some or worse case not centered in swing arm. You might have to lift up chain guard to sight down chain to see if all items are in the same plane, front sprocket, rear sprocket & chain runs. side pressure of the chain links will wear the pins in the chain out faster than if they run true & parallel to the transmission of the bike.

 

[sergei]

thanks guys, I missed the chain wear and it wore out the drive sprocket. I'll change the set.

 

[sergei]

PWBII, my native language is Russian, and it's difficult to find the right terms. I'm already looking at the manual on how to write to find something on the forum ) . I'm using a translator here


I've driven 20,000 km on this chain in 3 years. a little more. RK chain, uneven wear, jerking.
I recently returned from vacation
I traveled 3200 km in 10 days with a break. I easily traveled 600 km per day. This was my first long trip.
Everything went smoothly . There were some minor issues. The lower left muffler burned out. I already ordered a used one from Japan. By the way, the muffler on the Japanese version of the 2 and 3 cylinders has a connection for some reason. The mufflers on the American version of the motorcycle are different. I changed the oil frequently. I used 20w50 mineral oil. After 700 km, it turned into water. The engine was running noisily. I decided to change it often , it 's more reliable .I need to look for a stronger oil.
I also tightened the chain tensioners. The trip was not difficult. I really enjoyed it. and also, when I was returning home, a small light bulb next to the speedometer went out and burned out, warning me that I was going over 80 km/h. I guess the motorcycle thought I was more experienced)).
this motorcycle ALWAYS attracted the attention of bikers in any city I was in. Everyone was reminiscing about the days when things were real, made of iron, without plastic or Chinese junk.
I didn't install the side panniers, I like the look better without them. faster)

 

[PWBII]

OK, I understand the language difference. Your post said mineral oil in your bike. Is that right? I use Castrol GTX 20W-50 in my Hondas. No issues ever! When you tighten those rear chain tensioners, be sure the wheel is centered. There are marks on the swing arm to give you an idea where the axle is on each side. Also, a mark on the chrome adjuster to line up with. Should be the same number on each side if all else is original.

 

[sergei]

Yes, I already removed the wheel when I changed the tire. I've probably read 90% of the posts on this forum) . I do almost everything for maintenance myself. the main thing is a good tool, a garage and free time. In the spring , I bought a spare engine . just in case)).
oil is an interesting topic, I've tried different brands. but I've settled on mineral 20w50. it lasts a long time in the city. but on the highway, the thickener in the oil quickly liquefies. I'll try other brands .I like Liqui Moly, but it's no longer available.the main thing is that zddp is greater than 1000

 

[kirky]

if the wheel is centered in the swinging fork/ arm and wear is happening maybe the frame is accident damaged , , i would only use mineral oil in old british bikes and cars

 

[mrtwowheel]

When he says "mineral oil", I think he is referring to "conventional motor oil".

 

[Bo82CB]

I definitely can understand and relate to your statement about oil in the summer time getting thin. You are doing yourself a big favor by changing it often.
Since you can get parts from Japan, look into buying oil cooler kit for Japanese market 750F or 900F. CB 1100F oil cooler is double the size of 900 thus providing better heat transfare. To do this you will need oil pump, oil pan and oil lines, from the model you are geeting cooler from. You also need new oil pan gasket and new O rings for the lines, Installation of all that is not hard at all.

 

[sergei]

I live in the Far North region. Russian, the city of Murmansk . this is the 69th latitude. beyond that is only the Arctic Ocean. We don't have high temperatures very often. a good leather jacket is what you always need ) .
next time I want to pour synthetic oil 20w50 . these engines destroy the mineral base very quickly . I will try synthetic on esters. I bought Amsoil for my snowmobile, and I liked it, but we don't have it available right now.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Nice looking bike, sergei.

 

[PWBII]

Good idea to add an oil cooler. There is a Lockhart brand that will work off an adapter that goes between the engine block & the oil filter housing. Just needing a longer oil filter bolt to hold it all together. I have on on my '76'. I put a cover over it in the cold weather. I ride mine 12 month a year in New York state USA. I have a set of spare wheels with dirt tires on the for snow. Not so good on ice though, I avoid that.

 

[PWBII]

Here's a pic from the internet of the kit; this one doesn't need a special bolt. Mount the cooler below bottom triple tree on the forks & run hoses to the adapter behind the oil filter. Only issue would be on older models with accordion boots on the forks. Might have to get creative on mounting to get cooler in the air stream on those models. Originally I think these came with skinny hose clamps to go around the fork legs & in two hole in the cooler.

 

[sergei]

Nice looking bike, sergei.

thank you, I bought the original side covers, now I just need to find a tank in the original paint and it will be completely original