Clutch basket removal

[kzdcw]

Have a 74’ CB 750 K model. Has the dreaded clutch rattle noise. Picked up a set of new rubber cushions to replace. Question is probably pretty easy for you Tech guys to answer, but after removing the clutch plate assembly, does the clutch basket with end gear, just slide out ? Or is there something I need to address before I remove it ? Always like to do my research before I start the job. Any help is always greatly appreciated

 

[UK K6]

What rubber cushions? None on a SOHC 750 clutch.

They all rattle somewhat. Sort your points and time the ignition, balance your carbs and set your idle at 1300rpm. Usually sorts it out.

 

[kzdcw]

As I found out when digging into my clutch assembly further. Totally different outer clutch basket than from the DOHC 750’s which had dampers. Least I educated myself how it’s setup.
I’ve gone thru all the tune up procedures and everything is spot on. Even bench synched the carbs. I’ve got a set of vacuum gauges. Just need to synch the carbs. Not very good at it but going to make a good attempt at it

 

[dirtdigger]

The rubber cushions are on the primary drive in the sohc. most bottom end rattle in the sohc is in the primary chains. They stretch fast and uneven and are tensioned with a spring tensioned wheel. There are two separate chains side by side and they where uneven causing the chains to bounce and whip making noise. You can put new chains in and in couple thousand miles the rattle will be back. With age the tensioner wheel starts breaking down and gets hard compounding the rattle. The rougher the engine runs the louder the rattle will be. most people do an ok job on the tuneup and carb sync but you need to get stuff almost perfect for the 750 to idle well. I here bikes running in videos online and they think they are running good but the sound like crap because more then likely the tuneup isnt as good as it can get, just close. You have to get the dwell perfect and the timing spot on. compression needs to be good and even, carbs need to be set and synced with good vacuum needle gauges with adjustable dampers

 

[1952paul0]

What rubber cushions? None on a SOHC 750 clutch.

They all rattle somewhat. Sort your points and time the ignition, balance your carbs and set your idle at 1300rpm. Usually sorts it out.

Yeah I had a K2 from new and they rattled. It`s only when the engine is tuned correctly and and the clutch lever pulled in does the rattle subside . I say subside as you can never totally get rid of the rattle. Their all the same.

 

[ShopdogAI]

Good research habit, and the answer is no, the basket doesn't just slide off. There's a defined sequence you have to follow first, per the factory manual.

**Clutch cover and cable first:**- Remove the clutch cover- Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch lever- Remove the clutch case mounting screw and remove the case

**Lifter plate and spring:**- Unscrew the four clutch lifter mounting bolts- Remove the clutch lifter plate and spring

**Lock nut, washers, and clutch center:**- Remove the clutch lock nut using lock nut box wrench Tool No. 07916-2830000- Remove the tongued washer and spring washer- Remove the clutch center

**Discs, plates, and outer ring:**- Remove clutch friction disc B and the clutch outer ring from the clutch outer- Remove the friction discs A and clutch plates

**Now the basket comes off:**- Remove the clutch washer and clutch pressure plate- Pull the clutch outer off the main shaftThe 07916-2830000 lock nut box wrench is not optional. The factory manual calls it out specifically for that lock nut, and improvising there will round the nut or damage the surrounding parts.

One note on the primary driven sprocket: per the factory manual it is integral to the clutch outer assembly. Separating it involves raising the transmission mainshaft, removing the sprocket from the mainshaft, and then removing the primary chain from the sprocket. That's a separate operation from the clutch disassembly sequence above. If you need to go that route to get the rubber cushions out, I can walk you through it.

 

[Boatracer]

The rubber cushions are on the primary drive in the sohc. most bottom end rattle in the sohc is in the primary chains. They stretch fast and uneven and are tensioned with a spring tensioned wheel. There are two separate chains side by side and they where uneven causing the chains to bounce and whip making noise. You can put new chains in and in couple thousand miles the rattle will be back. With age the tensioner wheel starts breaking down and gets hard compounding the rattle. The rougher the engine runs the louder the rattle will be. most people do an ok job on the tuneup and carb sync but you need to get stuff almost perfect for the 750 to idle well. I here bikes running in videos online and they think they are running good but the sound like crap because more then likely the tuneup isnt as good as it can get, just close. You have to get the dwell perfect and the timing spot on. compression needs to be good and even, carbs need to be set and synced with good vacuum needle gauges with adjustable dampers

Hey question for you. I have a restored k2 and exhaust flanges tell me carbs are sync’ed by temperature (I have put a gauge on them but could if you think it’s needed) but when bike is on the stand I hear to clanking around, not as speed, or upright, and not servere but noticeable. I swapped starter clutch and seems a little better, but now you have me thinking it’s the primary chain under the left cover behind the stator cover. Thoughts? It runs great…just trying to shake out the last gremlin

 

[dirtdigger]

The primary chain isnt under the left cover, its in the center of the engine.

You need to sync the carbs with gauges, exhaust temp isnt accurate way to set carb sync. Many things affect exhaust temp other than carbs.

 

[Boatracer]

They were balanced. I brought idle up and the engine noise is minimal. What little noise hear is when it’s in the kickstand and seems to be the starter clutch. I may do a sprag