CB750FA Charging Issues

[Jack Dempsey]

Hey guys I’m desperate I’ve been searching everywhere.
CB750FA 1980s having charging problems
Ricks Stator installed
Ricks Rotor installed
And Ricks Reg Rec installed
Battery is good.
Still won’t charge I have no ideas what the fuck is going on, connections seem to be fine, black reads 12v white reads 1v, on startup black and white read 12v but stator still excited just no production of electricity.

The stator does excite tested with thin piece of metal.

Only thing is I don’t have a gasket on the case is that really going to not make it produce ?

 

[mrtwowheel]

No gasket will not stop it from charging. Have you checked the brushes?

 

[Jack Dempsey]

Yea they brand spanking I for go to mention, fresh from ricks. Whole new alternator setup.
Brushes, brush holder, stator, rotor, and reg rec all replaced by ricks gear…

 

[Bo82CB]

At what rpm are you checking your charging?

 

[Jack Dempsey]

At what rpm are you checking your charging?

2000-5000 rpm nothing not even a bit of charge coming thru

 

[mrtwowheel]

My latest experience with charging issues. Last summer I refurbed two of my DOHC's. After a lot of other work both bikes were not charging. Both problems were in the area of the reg/rec connection block by the battery. One bike had a bad wire just before that connection block. The other bike had a bad connection in the block itself. A crimped connector inside the block had been pushed out of the block ever so slightly.

Just to rehash what you probably already know. A charged battery standing at rest not under any load should be something like 12.6 volts. A battery just after a full charge should be around 13.6 volts. A battery at idle should be around 12 volts. A battery above idle, usually around 3000 rpm, should be around 14.2 volts.

 

[Jack Dempsey]

My latest experience with charging issues. Last summer I refurbed two of my DOHC's. After a lot of other work both bikes were not charging. Both problems were in the area of the reg/rec connection block by the battery. One bike had a bad wire just before that connection block. The other bike had a bad connection in the block itself. A crimped connector inside the block had been pushed out of the block ever so slightly.

Just to rehash what you probably already know. A charged battery standing at rest not under any load should be something like 12.6 volts. A battery just after a full charge should be around 13.6 volts. A battery at idle should be around 12 volts. A battery above idle, usually around 3000 rpm, should be around 14.2 volts.

Thanks I’ll quad triple check the terminals although I’ve checked and cleaned them for corrosion, minimal corrosion as most of the parts are new including the starter solenoid . Might check the connections on that see if something is incorrect as it’s an after market starter solenoid / fuse connector

 

[Jack Dempsey]

On a side note, blew the wiring loom doing some diy testing G/R to constant power wasn’t a good idea. so I’m going to replace the lot. Its already in bad shape.
Anyone know what this is looks like a diode what’s it do?

 

[mrtwowheel]

I'm a little fuzzy on that. Yeah I think there is one and only one diode on those bikes. I'd have to check, but I think that is inline to the ignition switch or after the ignition switch for some circuit .

So, you touched green/red (negative) to red positive?

 

[Jack Dempsey]

I'm a little fuzzy on that. Yeah I think there is one and only one diode on those bikes. I'd have to check, but I think that is inline to the ignition switch or after the ignition switch for some circuit .

So, you touched green/red (negative) to red positive?

It was a green and red (GR) wire that was going to the reg rec and I thought I’d try give it a constant power but it must of been something else and yea the green red also went to the diode which went to the ig switch so a lot of work to do…