Cam chains replacement

SkyWanderer

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What’s it take to replace the cam chains onmy 81, and is it something an amateur can/should do? I’m more of a parts replacer than a mechanic, and finding a shop around socal or SLC is proving difficult
 
Necessity is the mother of invention. And apparently not having a choice is the mother of necessity.
You have a vintage motorcycle, you're going to have to do the majority of your own work. First, get a service manual, electronic or physical. Secondly, watch some vids on it. There are plenty out there. It might take you longer than others but that doesn't mean you can't do it.
 
Necessity is the mother of invention. And apparently not having a choice is the mother of necessity.
You have a vintage motorcycle, you're going to have to do the majority of your own work. First, get a service manual, electronic or physical. Secondly, watch some vids on it. There are plenty out there. It might take you longer than others but that doesn't mean you can't do it.
So you don’t know either. Your tough love condescending and arrogant response contributed absolutely nothing to the situation and insights and experience I was seeking.
 
Wow, you couldn't have taken my response any worse. I wasn't being condescending. Let me try again.
Your bike is old, just like all of ours, and finding a shop to work on it is difficult, to say the least. I have had to dig in to some things simply because there wasn't anybody around to pay to do it.
To answer your question specifically, you need the tools to remove the tank and seat, valve cover, timing cover, removal of the cam, a chain breaker, etc. But that doesn't really help, right? I can't imagine a better way to understand what you're getting into than seeing it in a video specifically to show that job being done.
 
Thanks. I appreciate your follow up. I have a couple other bikes from the 80s and do the work myself that I can/must. I’m not familiar with digging into the details of cam chains at all. I’ll find a way and figure it out, with the help of online resources, etc. 🤞
 
If you haven't heard of him, Brick House Builds works on vintage bikes and has a couple videos on the cam chain. To be honest, I can't remember if the engine has to come out and jugs have to come off. He is a fan of using a solid chain for cam chains and not one with a master link. And he does a good job of explaining how to line up the cam sprocket and cam lobes so your timing isn't messed up.
 
If you haven't heard of him, Brick House Builds works on vintage bikes and has a couple videos on the cam chain. To be honest, I can't remember if the engine has to come out and jugs have to come off. He is a fan of using a solid chain for cam chains and not one with a master link. And he does a good job of explaining how to line up the cam sprocket and cam lobes so your timing isn't messed up.
Thanks for the tip! I hadn’t heard of him before. I’ll definitely check this out. Much appreciated!
 
Boy you are a real piece of work. I would have told you to pound sand.
Yeah, but we can't go around scaring all the new members away. @brettp handled this extremely well in my opinion. We should all strive to be as calm and forgiving. It would go a long way toward making new members feel welcome.
 
I've replaced the chains before, without removing the engine. The "A" chain can be purchased with a rivet link, the "B" chain doesn't need one. Installing the new chain is extremely fiddly - I can't begin to explain it, it's something you have to experience. Get the proper chain breaker / riveting tool, practice on an old chain until you are happy with your results and that you are getting a decent rivet form and the chain is secure - before going anywhere near your engine.
You can split the old chain and wire the new one to it with stainless locking-wire, turn the engine slowly (cams removed!) to feed the new chain in, keeping tension on both ends as you go. Once in, pack everything with rag, because there is severely limited room to work in, and if you drop one tiny bit of link in there - it's game over! Engine out and stripdown! This is why I advise practice with an old chain.....
Once you have the new chain riveted, it's just a case of following the shop manual to reassemble and time the cams. Now, if it were my engine, I'd be checking the valve clearances carefully before removing the cams, then if any need adjusting (swapping shims) it's easy while you have the cams out.
The "nay-sayers" will tell you you shouldn't trust a riveted chain, but every single link of a chain is a rivetted assembly anyway, so as long as you form the end of the pin correctly - it's absolutely fine. My engine hits 9000rpm every time I use the bike, with no worries about a chain failing.
 
Yeah, but we can't go around scaring all the new members away. @brettp handled this extremely well in my opinion. We should all strive to be as calm and forgiving. It would go a long way toward making new members feel welcome.
I get what you are saying, but a new member that starts off trashing a Top Contributor like Brett needs to back off a little don't you think? And yes Brett handled it much better than I would have. Actually I just noticed he is not a new member. He has been here longer than me.
 
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I've replaced the chains before, without removing the engine. The "A" chain can be purchased with a rivet link, the "B" chain doesn't need one. Installing the new chain is extremely fiddly - I can't begin to explain it, it's something you have to experience. Get the proper chain breaker / riveting tool, practice on an old chain until you are happy with your results and that you are getting a decent rivet form and the chain is secure - before going anywhere near your engine.
You can split the old chain and wire the new one to it with stainless locking-wire, turn the engine slowly (cams removed!) to feed the new chain in, keeping tension on both ends as you go. Once in, pack everything with rag, because there is severely limited room to work in, and if you drop one tiny bit of link in there - it's game over! Engine out and stripdown! This is why I advise practice with an old chain.....
Once you have the new chain riveted, it's just a case of following the shop manual to reassemble and time the cams. Now, if it were my engine, I'd be checking the valve clearances carefully before removing the cams, then if any need adjusting (swapping shims) it's easy while you have the cams out.
The "nay-sayers" will tell you you shouldn't trust a riveted chain, but every single link of a chain is a rivetted assembly anyway, so as long as you form the end of the pin correctly - it's absolutely fine. My engine hits 9000rpm every time I use the bike, with no worries about a chain failing.
Fabulous reply. Thank you so much!! Will reread and reflect on this several more times as I dive in!
 
I get what you are saying, but a new member that starts off trashing a Top Contributor like Brett needs to back off a little don't you think? And yes Brett handled it much better than I would have. Actually I just noticed he is not a new member. He has been here longer than me.

Yes, he misinterpreted the tone of Brett's reply for sure, but they worked it out. Give him more time to see if there is a pattern. People don't always like your tone, but we give you the benefit of the doubt. And everyone else too.

Everyone needs to assume the best intent when they read stuff on the internet (OP included) because there is such little tonal information in our text unless we exaggerate it or use emojis. A lot of people don't and won't use them. We're not writers here, so we may mean for something to come off one way, but to others, it reads completely different.

Lastly, as the saying goes... If you don't have anything nice to say...
 
Yeah, sh*t happens. No big deal to try to reset the stage. SkyWanderer was equally receptive to a restart after I put some context around my reply.
And truth be told, this was the absolute fastest I've ever seen forum members get onto the right foot after a less than stellar start. All good.
 
FWIW if replacing the chains consider the better tensioners.....(Vince and Hyde)...
From what I've seen of their products on a well-respected engine builders page on facebook, I wouldn't bother! The A-chain forward guide has to be hammered into place, not good!
Standard parts being removed from engines as they are rebuilt are, what, pretty much 40 years old? So any new parts you fit now will outlive you! Different maybe if it's being built for racing, obviously, but for road use the standard parts are plenty good enough in my opinion.
 
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